It was the absolute stillness and slowly emerging stars that took my breath away as we watched the sun gradually disappear behind the mountain peaks of Nendaz. Around 30 minutes before, my group had snowshoed up a winding piste alongside a trickling stream, and snow-covered trees. There are few moments in life as peaceful and calm as sitting on a mountain top as the sun descends, with barely another person in sight.
My group had climbed the mountain with the help of our guide Stephane Biner, who told us to try and walk normally with the oversized plastic blocks strapped to our shoes, but within a few steps, the strange objects felt almost normal.
We feasted on local white wine, carrots and tomatoes while the raclette - also made at a local farm - was cooked over a mini bonfire.To finish the banquet we were treated to homemade Genepi -Switzerland’s renowned, and pretty strong, spirit.
This was one of many rare and utterly enjoyable experiences during my ski safari trip to Switzerland’s 4 Vallees- the country’s largest resort that connects the ski resorts of Verbier, La Tzoumaz, Nendaz , Veysonnaz and Thyon-Les Collons . The concept of ski safari is still relatively new, but tourists are enjoying the chance to ski between resorts and taste two hotels/chalets and holiday experiences for the price of one, the safari is booming in popularity. It works by guests checking into one chalet for a few days, then on the second or third day skiing across the resort to a new hotel where their luggage has been helpfully taken for them.
We started our adventures in Nendaz which boasts a mixture of blue, red, black and even yellow runs - like blacks but more hilly, aka moguls. This area isn’t as well-known as its neighbour Veriber, but its beauty is you get a share of the 400km of slopes but you’re not in the thick of the crowds. I was amazed at how empty each slope was, despite the stunning views and plenty of snow at the mountain’s tops. We spent our morning reaching the area’s highest peak, Mont-Fort (3,330m). It was easy to ski to, with lots of nice wide runs and few chair and button lifts. Those who want an extra thrill aside from skiing can zoom down this piste on the country’s largest - and fastest - zip wire, peaking at speeds of 130KM per hour. Sadly, our itinerary didn’t include a whizz down the wire so after taking in the stunning vista we put our skis back on and headed back down the mountain. From there you can also enter the resort’s famed ‘Freeride Routes’; a network of un-pisted off-piste runs with lift access. We stuck to the pistes, cruising between chairlifts until we reached the infamous Tortin yellow run, which by 3pm saw probably the highest moguls of the day. A border on our chairlift warned it was best in the morning, and as I wobbled down between hills I decided he was right.
There was a handy free ski shuttle bus that ferried us back to Nendaz where the Aprei bar, Edelweiss, was already pumping remixed Europop from an open-air DJ stand. Aperol Spritzs were being served faster than it took people to get down the Mont-Fort zip wire and we could have happily stayed there until closing time, But, alas, our heated outdoor swimming pool at our Hotel Nendaz 4 Vallees & Spa only stayed open until 8pm so after a few drinks, we submerged ourselves in the steaming water and watched the sun climb behind the mountains once again. As well as a large outdoor pool, the spa boasted several saunas, a salt pool and a hot tub. And despite being a large hotel, the saunas were practically empty as I lay back and let my aching muscle enjoy some much-needed rest. Our rooms had individual balconies that looked over the Alps, rainforest showers and double beds with crisp white linen sheets.
Being surrounded by farms and vineyards, it came as no surprise that Nendaz’s restaurants were a perfect spot for foodies. Local cuisine was deliciously fresh, and the chefs were happy to experiment with both local and exotic dishes. We ate at Hiver, which served racks of lambs, grilled rib-eye steaks, a large array of salads and even a vegan curry. Local Swiss wine filled the drink menu, both red and white.
The next day we skied over to Veysonnaz, making our way down a world championship run, which experts can glide down in less than two minutes. There were lots of curving forest runs offering more breathtaking vistas, and again the slopes felt mainly ours.
We lunched at the historic Les Chottes at 2,200 - a former milking hut that still displays plenty of quaint equipment that adds a unique charm and an atmosphere to the experience. It also had a quirky ice tunnel you walk through before reaching the balcony. Most of the year, this dining marvel even has a hot tub for skiers who want to fully refresh before hitting the slopes again.
After skiing around 100KM we made our way down the gondola to Hotel Chatel Royal in Veysonnaz. This accommodation had incredible views over Rhône Valley and a big outdoor hubtub where you can enjoy the vista in peace. The village itself was filled with rustic traditional wooden buildings and was a lot quieter than its neighbour Nendaz.
We dined at our chalet which offered an array of local meats, vegetables and breads that you could eat as much as you like in a buffet-style dining experience.
Nendaz has two distinct ski-pass offers. Beginners can purchase a cheaper pass that cover the Printze Sector (Nendaz, Veysonnaz, Thyon/Les Collons and Siviez), where there are 50 lifts. The second ski-pass offer is the full 4 Valleys ticket. This adds in the Mont-Fort glacier, Verbier, La Tzoumaz and Bruson.
The nearest station to the 4 Vallées is Sion which has good links to both Zurich and Geneva. We took the train to Geneva using a Swiss Travel Pass that offers unlimited travel on consecutive days using the country’s buses or trains. So we first took a local bus down the winding mountains before arriving at Sion but the journey with seamless, with lots of services running throughout the day. Trains in Switzerland always seem to run (to the precise second), and are impressively spacious compared to the UK’s. During our trip back to the airport we passed the country’s famous Geneva lake where the blue waters melted into the clear sky and an array of interesting houses flash by the window - from the very old to the very new.
There are direct flights from Geneva to Bristol, and several a day to London. From Heathrow you can also fly to Zurich, which we did on our outwards bound flight. The airline offers free Swiss chocolate, so you can sample the delights the country has to offer before you land. SWISS Airlines offers more than 160 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and London Gatwick (seasonal) to Zurich or Geneva. And one-way fares start from around £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva. By the time we landed back in England, with bags full of Swiss chocolate and wine, I experienced a twinge of sadness to see the UK’s flat, green landscape returning compared to the magical snow-capped mountains I had called my home for the week in Nendaz. Switzerland boasts unparalleled vistas, and impressive skiing and is also a foodies heaven - definitely worth a trip if you are looking for a new resort to explore.
FACT BOX INFORMATION – SUMMER 2022
Switzerland Tourism
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