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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
James McMahon

Sunday with Michel Roux: ‘Where’s the coffee? Good quality coffee. Never instant. I can’t abide instant’

‘I’d be amazed if my grandchildren don’t become chefs to be honest’: Michel Roux.
‘I’d be amazed if my grandchildren don’t become chefs to be honest’: Michel Roux. Photograph: Dan Wooller/Shutterstock

What time are you up? I’m an early riser, I have been since I was a kid. I was working from the age of 16 in a pastry shop in Paris. That was a 4am start, so I suppose I got conditioned. I like to attack the day, even if it’s a Sunday.

First thing you do? As soon as I’m awake, my first thought is, where’s the coffee? Good quality coffee. Never instant. I can’t abide instant. And I always wake up hungry, no matter what I did the night before. It’s just the metabolism I’ve got. I burn calories for fun.

Lunch or breakfast? Breakfast is an important meal, but mine is never lavish. Good quality bread, toasted, good quality salted butter, homemade marmalade or some good honey. That’ll do me. I prefer brunch because it’s normally when the kids and grandkids get involved. I like kippers, smoked mackerel or salmon. Breakfast is just too early for that stuff.

Sunday lunch? I was born in Britain, but a Sunday lunch doesn’t hold the same status in France – and the part of me that’s French isn’t bothered with it either, really. Don’t get me wrong, I love a bit of roast beef or a nice roast chicken, but the whole ritual of it doesn’t do it for me. It’s a bit too formal.

What does Sunday food mean to you? It’s about more than eating. It’s about getting family around a table. It’s about that ritual. And because we’re a family of chefs, there’s a lot of connection in the preparation and the cooking, too. We all know our roles. I’d be amazed if my grandchildren don’t become chefs to be honest, they love their food.

Away from food? Sunday is also about sport. When I was a runner, especially so. I ran marathons for a hobby. But since my knees got shot, it’s more about watching sport, though sometimes I will squeeze in yoga, Pilates or the gym before brunch. If Harlequins are at home or Man Utd are in town, I might go and see them play – they’re my teams. But it’s mostly about collapsing on the sofa.

Roux Back Down the River is on Mondays at 9pm from 23 September on Food Network and available to stream on Discovery+

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