“She’s come dressed as a giant tennis ball” was one fan’s verdict on Jelena Ostapenko’s neon yellow ensemble as the Latvian number one took to the court at Flushing Meadows. “It’s giving strong highlighter energy” was another illustrative comment on social media. But Ostapenko has not been the only luminous presence at this year’s US Open, with neon yellows and fluorescent limes dominating.
In her drama-filled opening match, home favourite Coco Gauff was resplendent in her own neon yellow-green two piece, custom-made by New Balance. The Ukrainian Marta Kostyuk was a blinding vision in her dress (and matching hi-vis shoes) by Wilson, the Chicago-based sports equipment and apparel brand she signed a head-to-toe deal with earlier this year.
On the men’s side, Grigor Dimitrov came through a robust five-setter in a Lacoste shirt with a radioactive-coloured back, and Aussie Alex de Minaur sported a cap brighter than the sun.
A key reason for the US Open’s colourful sartorial extravagance might be that the final slam of the year follows the all-white affair of Wimbledon, and Nike in particular tends to throw everything into the mix. (Especially as its Wimbledon efforts are not universally praised – one dress for the All England Club was declared “a lampshade mixed with a doily”).
There is also the fact that New York is a fashion-forward city, and its fashion week begins just days after the start of the tournament. Neon yellow – or sonic yellow as it was called back then – also had a moment back in 2016. Fans didn’t approve, but the New York Times fashion pages did.
The 2022 US Open line was perhaps Nike’s most outre yet, kitting players out in a riot of psychedelia. For 2023, the kits are just as colourful, but with patterns less likely to cause television sets to strobe. Their Aztec- and mosaic-inflected designs have caught the eye. Defending champion Carlos Alcaraz sported one of the new tops – and for the first time since he came to mainstream attention – went sleeveless.
While Nike has consistently led the field in zany kits, its key rival Adidas has often missed the mark. Tried too hard. Fallen at very ugly hurdles. Last autumn’s North American hard-court swing featured various monstrosities. This year, the company’s vibe is still somewhat unhinged, but works better. Aside from Jessica Pegula’s less eye-popping racerback dress, there are plenty of diverse looks. Zebra accents abound, as do lightning-bolt motifs on chests and zig-zag skirts.
Alas, Roger Federer, so suave on and off the court, has hit a bum note with the sports brand he part-owns, ON. Young American hope Ben Shelton wore a bold fuchsia kit, while women’s world No.1 IIga Świątek has been in blue. Elsewhere, Polish player Magdalena Fręch’s animated look, by the east African label Bidi Badu, called to mind old television test card stripes.
Across the board, the more variety in outfits, the higher number of separates and colour combinations produced, means there is less chance of players who share sponsors wearing the exact same uniform when facing each other across the net, which over the years has happened frequently, and is not only aesthetically dull but can cause confusion for spectators.
Off court, Billie Jean King echoed the vivacious colour on it with her trademark hot pink glasses frames. Former champion Maria Sharapova rocked a Gabriela Hearst orange trouser suit with peep-toe heels, and Queen Latifah brought a touch of the 90s in a maxi cargo skirt a similar colour to Sharapova’s suit, teamed with a tucked-in vintage Jimi Hendrix tee and Adidas x Wales Bonner low-top sneakers.
In the stands of Arthur Ashe stadium, Michelle Obama wore a denim dress by Oscar de la Renta with a sweetheart neckline, which – if one were to be harsh – did have slight “Britney Spears in that infamous couples pic with Justin” overtones. The former first lady also briefly sported the novelty tennis ball sunglasses that have been doing the rounds. Tennis aficionado and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour stuck to her more demure black Chanel shades.
Perhaps the look that inspired the most attention around the grounds was Venus Williams’s ruffled Maison Alaia dress, which she paired with a Willy Chavarria suit jacket with a huge flower on the lapel. Unfortunately, her on-court “Barbiecore” get-up – light pink tank top and capri tights from her own label, EleVen – could not help the icon in her match; she fell to a 6-1 6-1 defeat. Should have gone with neon yellow.
