Staying at the Aga Reef Resort, Lalomanu, Samoa

Shandelle Battersby checks into the Aga Reef Resort, Lalomanu, Samoa

Getting there

: Lalomanu is one of Samoa's most famous beaches, which you'll find at the southeastern tip of Upolu, its main island. The area got hammered by the 2009 tsunami but has made a slow recovery; these days there are several places to stay in the area (ranging from basic fales to upmarket resorts such as Aga Reef), and that glorious stretch of golden beach is as beautiful as the day it was created. You may have to pay a few tala to residents of the local village to access it, so carry some cash.

If you're driving from the airport, allow 90 minutes to two hours: the speed limit is just 55km/h on the open road, 35km/h in villages, and many people drive on island time.
Check-in experience: We arrived almost bang on the check-in time of 2pm, after driving along the southern coast from the west, and got a swim and lunch in before retiring for a nap then sampling the cocktail menu at Happy Hour (5-7pm).

Room: One of the Waterfront Villas, which sit on stilts over the lagoon. The room came with a deck, cable TV, robes, a safe, tea and coffee, small fridge, a comfy sofa and large ottoman, and a ceiling fan and air-conditioning.

Price: There are two seasonal rates at Aga Reef - April 1 to October 31 (dry) and November 1 to March 31 (rainy). Rates start from $550 and $430 tala (about $300 and $235) respectively.

What's in the neighbourhood? The aforementioned beach, the must-see To Sua Ocean Trench is about 15 minutes up the road, and there are a couple of beautiful waterfalls nearby. The intriguing Nu'utele Island looms in the distance to the east - a former leper colony from 1916-18, the island is now a significant bird conservation area.

Toiletries: Aga Reef Resort's own brand.

Food and drink: Everything we ate here was seriously good, from the banana muffins at breakfast (oh dear) to the palumalau pave (snapper fillets with garlic mash, watercress, caramelised onion and lemon hollandaise. A continental breakfast is included (fresh fruit, toast, cereal, plunger coffee) and I can also report that the Happy Hour cocktails are excellent.

A room with a view? Yes, of the over-water villas on the resort's private island opposite (accessed via a bridge), the waves breaking on the reef and, one day, a local spear-fisherman knee-deep in water at low tide.

One of the hotel's rooms. Photo / Supplied

Bathroom

: Huge, with a walk-in rain shower and twin vanity, but there is no door. The toilet is separate.

Noise: Just the distant sound of those breaking waves.

Room service: No, but I'm sure they'd be accommodating if you really wanted it.

Facilities: There are bikes for hire, kayaks and snorkel gear to use for free, and an onsite spa. You'll find a lovely infinity pool and the island opposite has its own charming rock pool that you can snorkel in safely. The resort offers free cultural tours, and fiafia nights - Samoan performances with singing and fire dancing.

Free Wi-Fi? No, but you can buy a prepay Wi-Fi card for 25 tala ($13.70) for two hours. Access is patchy. Put your phone or tablet away.

Perfect for: A peaceful romantic getaway. Solo travellers would also be comfortable here.

The best part was: The friendly staff. It was my friend's birthday and they prepared an amazing fruit platter for her breakfast, and sang her Happy Birthday, before our farewell song, Tofa Mai Feleni (Goodbye My Friend). A superb way to cap off two weeks in one of the prettiest places in the world.