If most of us had to write a bucket list for travel experiences, chances are that seeing the northern lights would be pretty near the top. But the unearthly spectre of the aurora borealis is just one in a myriad of charms the dark skies of the Highlands and islands will boast this autumn. We spoke to seven local residents to get their tips for how to broaden your horizons – while scanning them for shooting stars and delving into the awe-inspiring mysteries of the Milky Way.
Unst and Yell, Shetland
Keen of Hamar nature reserve; Saxavord Planetary Trail; and West Sandwick beach
Recommended by: Catriona Waddington, chair of Wild Skies Shetland
Shetlanders are so familiar with the northern lights that they call them the “mirrie dancers” (translated as: shimmering dancers). Unst, the most northerly inhabited island, is closer to the Arctic Circle than London, making it the ideal place to spot this natural wonder. “The northern lights are a treat, [but] they don’t come to order,” warns Catriona Waddington, explaining that she and other local folk set up a Sky Trail on the island to entertain visitors, even if there is cloud cover. “But the wild skies here, even during the day, offer sights like double rainbows, which you can see end to end, with the second arch paler, and its colours the other way around.” She recommends the Keen of Hamar nature reserve, the Planetary Trail at Saxavord and West Sandwick beach in nearby Yell as unbeatable vantage points.
Caithness
Pentland Firth, Dunnet beach and John O’Groats
Recommended by: Chris Sinclair, astrophotographer
In the Gaelic language, the northern lights were personified as na fir-chlis (translated as: nimble men) rather than “mirrie dancers”, and Chris Sinclair explains that the autumn equinox is the perfect time to catch a glimpse of them in the Highlands. “For a clear view, my favourite spots are Pentland Firth, Dunnet beach and John O’Groats,” he says. “Just remember to turn your car lights off when you arrive at a location – you can’t expect to see it otherwise and may ruin 10 minutes of another stargazer’s night while figuring that out.” This autumn, he is also excited to capture the Orionid meteor shower, which will peak on the night of 21-22nd October.
Orkney
North Ronaldsay
Recommended by: Alison Duncan, warden of North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory
North Ronaldsay is the most northerly isle of the Orkney archipelago, and is now officially recognised as a Dark Sky Island. “The aurora borealis depends on solar activity, which is in an 11-year cycle – this year we enjoyed brilliant lights in January,” says Alison Duncan. Along with her fellow islanders, Duncan worked very hard to win this coveted status, the only light pollution affecting their skies now comes from across the sea: “You can see Kirkwall 35 miles away, but even that glow is less than it used to be.” Keep an eye out for North Ronaldsay Dark Skies events this autumn and winter.
Lochaber
Kilmory, Isle of Rum
Recommended by: Alex Mumford, visitor service manager
When it comes to stargazing on the Isle of Rum, Alex Mumford recommends the entire island. “It is nearly all protected nature reserve, which has no lighting at all,” explains the Bristol native, who relocated here with girlfriend, Buffy, during lockdown. “That sets us apart from anywhere else and the beautiful colours and hues in the autumn sky are spectacular. Stargazing season begins in September … our best spot for northern lights hunting would be Kilmory on the northern tip.”
Cairngorms Dark Sky Park, Moray Speyside
Blairfindy Moor
Recommended by: Sam Robinson, secretary of the Cairngorms Astronomy Group
For an unparalleled view of the northern lights, Sam Robinson suggests Blairfindy Moor – which is part of the Cairngorms Dark Sky Park. However, he explains: “The main feature, especially in autumn, is actually the Milky Way – it arches straight overhead at that time of the year. You’ll see a ribbon of bright stars and the Summer Triangle, of Vega, Altair and Deneb, it’s beautiful … When I see those stars come up over the horizon it’s like meeting old friends.”
Argyll & The Isles
Isle of Gigha
Recommended by: Casey-Jo Zammit, countryside ranger
Even ordinary moons look enormous on the Isle of Gigha, according to Casey-Jo Zammit, from the Isle of Gigha Heritage Trust. This year, summer ends on a blue moon and will be followed by a supermoon on 29 September – making for breathtaking sights in the dark skies of Argyll & The Isles. “On a clear night, the whole island is moonlit,” Zammit explains, talking about the seven miles of magical paths you can ramble along. “The community came together to build a dark skies theatre here in the perfect place, so there’s absolutely no light pollution … but visitors will have a beautiful view even from their hotel.”
Isle of Arran
Goatfell and the Pirnmill hills
Recommended by: Kirstie Smith, photographer
Another major attraction in the spectacular night sky this autumn will be the planets: Mercury will be visible 16-30 September, while Venus will be brightest on 19 September. The backdrops and beaches of Arran make a must-see setting for the sunrise – even without this extra inducement. “I remember one night seeing meteors,” recalls Arran native Kirstie Smith, who bivouacs to shoot the sky and recommends the castles, Goatfell and the western ridges of the Pirnmill hills as perfect patches of night sky. “And then the mist rolled in for a night-time inversion – it was mind-blowing, I was mesmerised the entire night.”
Continue these amazing experiences
If these recommendations from locals have inspired you to visit the Highlands and islands, why not continue your stargazing adventure at these other popular stargazing locations:
The Flow County, Caithness
The Flow Country, in Caithness and Sutherland. The nature reserve at Forsinard Flows has recently been designated as a dark sky discovery site.
Wester Ross, North Highlands
Keep an eye out for Wester Ross Biosphere Dark Sky festival 2023, which will be taking place this November.
Outer Hebrides
With long autumn nights, the Outer Hebrides are known for their limited light pollution and awe-inspiring views of the stars. You can spot planets, the Milky Way and the Andromeda galaxy with your naked eye. Keen stargazers should not miss next year’s Hebridean Dark Skies festival, with some fascinating stargazing events, live music, film, visual art, theatre and astronomy talks.
Isle of Coll, Argyll & The Isles
The Isle of Coll, Inner Hebrides, has been recognised as an international dark sky community because of its dedication to the preservation of the night sky.
Autumn is the perfect season to discover the unique Spirit of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands. Start planning your trip at discoverhighlandsandislands.scot
