White sand beaches, a vast and complex history, gorgeous mountains and delicious food: Sri Lanka truly does have it all. Once ravaged by war, it is now a thriving and vibrant country that rewards the traveller willing to head off the beaten path in search of adventure.
With tourism to this little slice of paradise increasing by the year, it remains somewhat of a hidden gem, but make no mistake: this is the perfect time to plan a visit, before the rest of the world heads there, too. Generally, the best time to visit is February and March.But what to do? It's impossible to tick off every tourist hotspot, especially if your holiday is being planned around work. However, there are some must-see places that should be on the list: here are our picks for what to see, where to stay and (most importantly) where to eat.
What to see: the North
Jaffna
Hardly any tourists make it all the way to Sri Lanka’s northernmost city of Jaffna, but those who do will be rewarded with vibrant culture, excellent food and a refreshingly low-key feel. The home of the country’s Hindu Tamil population, Jaffna feels distinctly different to the rest of Sri Lanka: swing by for jaw-dropping temples, the spiciest and best crab curry in the country and the iconic Jaffna Fort, which is now an atmospheric ruin.
Anuradhapura
The spiritual centre of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist population, Anuradhapura is an intriguing mix of ruin and religious centre. Dotted with stupendously large stupas – earth-filled brick domes that often contain relics – which are still used as a place of worship, it’s a great place to get a sense of Sri Lanka’s multifaceted history. Hiring a driver to take you around is a must.
The Middle
Tea Country
People who love a good old cuppa certainly shouldn’t miss the opportunity to see how it’s made – not only is a trip to the hilly tea country fascinating, it’s also gorgeously verdant. Those wanting to make a trip should head to Nuwara Elia, one of the old British colonial centres. Quite apart from the bizarre British buildings still visible there (the old post office and nearby Grand Hotel, thegrandhotelnuwaraeliya.com, which serves a traditional high tea, are particular highlights), it’s a great jumping off point to visit some of the nearby tea plantations. Glenloch Tea Factory is especially good and includes a free tour, but simply driving through the fields of growing tea plants is surprisingly atmospheric. Then, get the train from Nanu Oya to Ella for some unbeatable views.
Kandy
Serene Kandy, surrounded by hills and abutted by a lake, isn’t worth more than a day’s visit, but it definitely has a charm all its own. Quite apart from visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth (where the Buddha’s right molar is said to be kept, though not in public view), which is an experience in itself, a Kandyan dance show is a must-see, not least for the fire-walking that takes place at the end of the night. There are three venues that offer them: the old Red Cross Hall, the Kandyan Cultural Centre and the Dance Hall. Buy tickets (a couple of pounds) at the door.
Ella
The hippy centre of Sri Lanka, Ella has grown from a small village to a rapidly-expanding tourist hotspot. Filled with massive bamboo huts that look plucked straight from Bali, a walk down the strip at night is a feast for the eyeballs. However, it’s also a great place to get some serious hiking done, with the iconic Ella Rock nearby as well as sections of the Pekoe Trail. Ella is also home to the iconic Nine Arch Bridge: a massive colonial-era structure that traverses a jungle-filled valley and offers spectacular views for passengers in the trains that cross over it. Of course, this being Sri Lanka, pedestrians are welcome to stroll over the bridge for photo opps too: just mind the tracks.
Sigiriya
This ancient rock fortress (sigiriyafortress.com) is jaw-dropping to look at, and not as difficult to climb as you might think. Hailed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, it towers over the forested plains that surround it: as the stories go, Sigiriya was once a monastery, then the home of a king (who built a palace on its very top, à la Machu Picchu) and still bears traces of its former glory. For an even better view, climb nearby Pidurangala rock at dawn for an epic sunrise that shows Sri Lanka at its most beautiful.
The Pekoe Trail
Hitting up Sri Lanka’s tourist hotspots is all very well, but the Pekoe Trail (thepekoetrailsrilanka.com) offers a way to see the country slightly differently. Created by Miguel Cunat with the aim of encouraging tourists to discover little-visited tea villages, the trail stretches more than 300km and is broken into 22 separate stages that stretch about 15km in length. Perfect, in other words, for jumping on and off – and those who do will be rewarded with some stunning walks through tea plantations and countryside.
The South
Yala National Park
Yes, you can see elephants here – as well as, potentially, the rather rarer leopard. Sri Lanka is a hotspot for wildlife, and Yala National Park (yalasrilanka.lk) is the obvious place to go to find them. Tour companies abound, offering tourists the chance to take guided Jeep trips into the jungle for a day of sightseeing. The best place to book one is from Tissamaharama: many of the hotels offer both half and full-day trips and it’s by far the easiest option; for the full experience, consider a trip to the neighbouring Jetwing Hotel (jetwinghotels.com/jetwingyala), which offers visitors the chance to camp on the sand dunes by the sea.
Galle
Do they get any cuter than Galle? Walking through this cobblestone town often feels like being transported straight back to Europe, or to the dilapidated grandeur of Havana in Cuba. Much of the town was built by the Portuguese before being handed over to the Dutch and eventually the British, and today Galle retains much of its old-world charm. It rewards the traveller who takes the time to stroll its winding roads, which are in turn packed with boutique shops. A tiny gem.
Hiriketiya
Head to Hiriketiya while you can: in a few years, this sleepy surfing village will be a hotbed of resorts and tourist activity. Lots of building is happening here, but for the moment, it remains a must-see – the crescent bay where surfers spend their days training makes for excellent people watching, the restaurants are quiet and the excellent Jo’s is a good place to while away the nights, Lion beer in hand. Plus, cocktail mecca Smoke and Bitters is a mere ten-minute walk away. What more could you ask for?
The beaches
Miles of sweeping, golden sand, framed by lapping blue waves: yes, the south coast is the best place to go if you’re in search of some prime beach time. Anywhere between Wellagama and Galle will see you right, but Hiriketiya and Mirissa offer some especially good sunbathing spots, as does Tangalle, which is home to the famous Medaketiya, Marakolliya and Rekawa beaches. Even better, many of these places are also nesting spots for turtles, which are surprisingly easy to find: clearly, they enjoy a bit of R’n’R as much as we do.
Where to stay
Teardrop Hotels
This chain of boutique hotels offers unbeatable service in some of the most beautiful locations on the island. Head to the rolling hills of Nuwara Elia to visit Goatfell, a four-bedroom former plantation bungalow with stunning views (or indeed neighbouring hotels Camellia and Nine Skies); on the west coast, the hotels of Balapitiya and Bentota offer endless beaches, abutted by infinity pools by which to sip cocktails.
Alternatively, those craving a city escape should head to Fort Bazaar in Galle, a former 17th century building that has been flawlessly renovated and boasts one of the city’s best restaurants in Church Street Social. Don’t miss the cooking classes here, either: hosted by one of the hotel’s chefs, it’s a unique chance to visit Galle’s markets and choose food that will be cooked in front of your eyes, Sri Lankan-style.
Double rooms at Goatfell start from £620 per night on full board and double rooms at Fort Bazaar (excluding breakfast) start from £455 based on two people sharing. For bookings visit: teardrop-hotels.com
Santani
Heading to Sri Lanka for some peace and quiet? You can’t do better than Santani. Hidden away in the hills above Kandy, this is a wellness centre par excellence. Stay in one of the Mountain View cabins for epic views of the rolling hills surrounding the hotel – daytime activities include yoga, hikes and visits to the spa, which offers a huge range of treatments in addition to a sauna and warm salt-water bath. And did we mention the restaurant? Surrounded on all sides with glass, it’s an education in Sandi chic, and stunning place to eat breakfast before heading out for the day.
Rooms start from £455 a night for two people. For bookings visit santani.com
Jetwing Hotels
Jetwing has been a mainstay in Sri Lanka for over fifty years and has hotels located all over the island. Founded by Sri Lankan businessman Herbert Cooray, its rooms are spacious, its food excellent (Peninsula, the restaurant in its Jaffna location, is a must-visit) and service attentive. Highlights include the aforementioned Jaffna hotel, which boasts the city’s only rooftop bar and epic views that stretch all the way to the sea, its Colombo branch and the jungle hideaway of Vil Uyana near Sigiriya, which is gorgeous and leafy and one of the only places in the country you can see the rare slender loris.
Room start from £410 a night for two people. For bookings visit jetwinghotels.com
Stafford Bungalow
Another old plantation bungalow, Stafford has six rooms available to rent, all lovingly decorated in teak and plush furniture. Situated as it is, half an hour’s drive from Nuwara Eliya, it’s a great jumping-off point to explore the Pekoe Trail – and scones on the sprawling lawn are a must.
Rooms start from £526 a night for two people. For bookings visit staffordbungalow.com
Sri Sharavi
Fancy some sun on Sri Lanka’s famous south coast? Then head to Sri Sharavi. Located near the beachfront town of Mirissa, it sits beachfront with views of the rolling Indian ocean and offers everything from whale-watching to yoga; if you're feeling flush, then rent one of the hotel’s villas, which have sea views and wooden verandas under which to relax during the heat of the day before jumping in the pool.
Rooms start from £465 a night for two people. For bookings visit srisharavibeachvillas.com
Where to eat
Smoke and Bitters
This cocktail bar is rightly famous across Sri Lanka and is well worth making the trip to Hiriketiya for. Featuring some of the best cocktails we’ve ever tasted (Pepper’s Vice, made with clarified milk punch, was a particular highlight), this establishment is right next to the beach, offers a killer food menu that could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with any London restaurant and has an ever-changing menu that keeps things fresh. Top marks. Pehebiya Rd, Dickwella, Matara, Hiriketiya.
Hideaway
Those looking to hang out in Kandy or Arugam Bay can’t go far wrong with Hideaway (hideawayarugambay.com). Gorgeously decorated with wood and distressed plaster, Hideaway is a great spot for evening cocktails, dinner or indeed brunch. Food offerings are a mix – yes, there’s Sri Lankan food here, including the obligatory curries – but if you fancy something a bit different, the octopus is a good shout, as is the hummus bowl. Hideaway Resort, Ulle, Pottuvil.
Ministry of Crab
Sri Lanka is famous for its crabs, and Ministry of Crab (ministryofcrab.com) is one of the best places to eat them. Situated in the gorgeous Old Dutch Hospital in central Colombo, the menu offers crab sizes from half-kilo to Crabzilla (2kg and above) served with butter, garlic and chilli, pepper or Sri Lankan curry. It’s not cheap, but hey: you get what you pay for, and it is delicious. Old Dutch Hospital Complex, 04 Hospital St, Colombo 00100.
AQUA Forte
Italian – in Sri Lanka? Yes, we know, but Aqua (aquaforterestaurant.com) is a special case. Situated in Galle’s atmospheric old town, this pretty little restaurant is the perfect place to sip on a chilled glass of wine and enjoy some surprisingly good Italian fare, including burrata, octopus and fresh ravioli. Coffee-heads can also rest assured that it opens in the morning for espresso and fresh pastries. 62 Leyn Baan St, Galle 80000.
Church Street Social
Galle’s old town is teeming with restaurants, but Church Street Social (teardrop-hotels.com/fort-bazaar) has to be one of the best. Situated in Teardrop Hotel’s Fort Bazaar, the menu is ever-changing (but delicious), the surroundings are gorgeous – choose to eat on the covered veranda, in the fairy-light strewn courtyard or in the restaurant proper – and it does a mean cocktail. Try the Arrack Attack and tuna sashimi; both are excellent. Fort Bazaar, 26 Church St, Galle
Duni’s
One of the more unassuming places on this list, but a great place to try the traditional Sri Lankan breakfast staple, hoppers (a bowl made from fried egg, filled with curries). Aimed firmly at Western audiences, this small wooden shack in Hirikiteya offers a variety of flavoured hoppers, good coffees and – for those less keen on curry for breakfast – a variety of smoothie bowls. XP74+68, Nilwella
Galaxy Lounge
Visiting this restaurant (galaxysrilanka.com) involves making a trek to the east coast's Arugam Bay, but it's worth it. Comprised of a series of hammocks and spacious cabanas, the vibes are chill, the beachside location is chiller and the food is superb: so good that the Sri Lankan cricket team came back for seconds. Swing by for the local fare of rice and curry dishes. Galaxy Rd, Arugam Bay 32500.
Roadside stalls
Want to try some authentic Sri Lankan fare? Your best bet might well be a stop-off on the way to your next destination. Sri Lanka teems with roadside stalls that offer street food par excellence – freshly-made rotis, sambal (a paste made from grated coconut and chilli) and kottu roti (an egg, bread and vegetable stir-fry). It’ll likely blow the top of your head off (spice is the order of the day in Sri Lanka), but it’s a must-try.
Sana’s Place
Head to the east coast and you’ll find one of the country’s most interesting dining locations in the eclectic and ever-evolving Sarvodaya Road near Trincomalee. Top of the pile is Sana’s, a two-level restaurant decorated in shades of driftwood that offers food fresh from the sea – the lobster is especially good. Nilaveli Beach Rd, Trincomalee 31000.
Matey Hut
Is it haute-cuisine? No, but it’s a great place to try some classic local fare. Situated in the tourist hotspot of Ella, this hut (yes, it is a hut) welcomes a revolving door of tourists keen to try everything from its curries (a near infinite list of vegetable options awaits) to its kottu roti. It’s all delicious, and as one of the best places to eat in Ella, it fills up fast: get there early to avoid queues.
