Early Easters are tricky from a wine point of view: you feel as if it should be properly spring by the end of March, but it’s so often not (it’s only 3C outside as I’m writing this, a couple of weeks ahead). My instinct, then, is to be cautious and behave as if it’s still winter, not least because very few people are going to complain about a full-bodied red or the lack of a rosé.
The good thing about Easter, however, is that you’re not as hidebound by tradition as at Christmas, say, so you can branch out a bit with your wine choices. This is also one of the main times of the year when there are plenty of deals out there. I often feel vaguely guilty about directing you to supermarket multibuys, but the fact is that we could all do with that kind of saving these days (and if that doesn’t apply to you, you’ll probably be getting your wine recommendations from the FT anyway).
But, as I always say, if you love your local wine shop, do buy at least one bottle from them or they might not be there next year. I have a particularly soft spot for Haynes Hanson & Clark, which has branches in west London and the Cotswolds and whose wines are more reasonably priced than you might expect from those locations. As well as the pinot bianco in my pick today, do try the Domaine de Fournier Cévennes 2022 (£11.70, or £10.40 if you buy a case of six, 14%), a deliciously spring-like blend of merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon.
In terms of the wines I’ve been tasting recently, meanwhile, one variety stands out in particular: grenache, or garnacha, as it’s known in Spain. That can be red (as I mentioned two weeks ago in the context of rioja) or white, which is especially common in blends from the south of France, Spain and South Africa. It’s perfect for this in-betweeny time of year, because it’s quite weighty and full-flavoured. Try the Wine Society’s Vino Lopez El Ventilador Blanco 2022 Valdejalón (£11.50, 13%), an organic blend of garnacha blanca and macabeo that is smooth and savoury, but fresher than typical white Rhône.
I also like the alvarinho below, which is Portugal’s answer to albariño, and, from the same region, Lidl’s bright, zesty Encostas de Caiz Avesso Vinho Verde 2023 (£8.99, 13%), which is bone-dry rather than the off-dry, spritzy style of regular vinho verde.
Finally, if you want a couple of bottles of fizz, Waitrose has 25% off the appealingly creamy Turckheim Crémant d’Alsace (12%) if you buy any six bottles, bringing it down from £13.99 a bottle to £10.49. Which is about what I feel it should cost anyway, but that’s supermarket reductions for you.
Six wines to enjoy over Easter
Alvarinho Contacto Anselmo Mendes 2022 £13.95 The Wine Society, 12.5%. Portuguese alvarinho is generally a quid or two cheaper than Spanish albariño, but with no sacrifice in quality. This fabulously crisp, mineral white would be great with any seafood.
Kurtatsch Pinot Bianco Weissburgunder 2022 £16.90 (or £15 by the case of six) Haynes Hanson & Clark, 13.5%. Described by the winemaker as an elegant mountain wine, this is one of the nicest whites I’ve tasted this year. A great alternative to white burgundy.
Alta Expresión 270 Ribera del Duero 2021 £7.99 Lidl, 14%. Lidl is focusing on Spain and Portugal in its current wine tour, and this dDeliciously mellow Spanish red is the standout for me. Perfect with lamb.
Famille Perrin Les Cardinaux Côtes du Rhône Villages 2021 £10.50 (on offer) Co-op, £11 Asda, 14.5%. A smartly bottled Côtes du Rhône that could pass as a châteauneuf du pape if you don’t look too closely. Warm, spicy and generous.
Sottano Malbec Mendoza 2022 £14.95 Dorset Wine Co, Hennings, Vindependents, 13%. Good to see the indies holding their own with this well-priced, elegant malbec. Would be great with the Easter Sunday roast.
Libre y Salvaje Cariñena 2019 £19.95 Butlers Wine Cellar, £20 Reserve Wines, 14%. Carignan can be rustic, but this exotically scented Spanish red is more floral in character, with an enticing aroma of dried rose petals. An unconventional choice for Easter, maybe, but a fantastic pairing with Middle Eastern-spiced lamb.
For more by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
