Fans of celebrities have the Hollywood Walk of Fame, and sports fans are usually able to visit a museum dedicated to their favourite team, but for cycling fans, an unassuming shower block in northern France acts as something of a combination of the two.
Constructed in the 1940's the block sits a little way behind the final turn into the Roubaix Velodrome. If you didn't know it was there you’d be unlikely to stumble across it, but even after battling over the toughest terrain road cycling can offer for hundreds of kilometres, riders trickle in, eschewing the more modern facilities on offer in their team buses. Why? It's part of cycling folklore.
Before the days of team buses these stark, roughly polished concrete cubicles played host to all the riders post-race. Such was their importance over the years that the room once given over to simply washing has been transformed into a well-used museum, one that in modern times is perhaps more of a photo opportunity for sponsors than a site of homage.
As well as a commemorative cobblestone trophy, winners of Paris-Roubaix also get a brass plaque within the shower block. While the podium ceremonies went on, my curiosity got the better of me, and thanks to my press pass, I spent some time in the showers after the race.
In my admittedly short experience, the users of the shower block fell into four categories. First, you had the young riders, perhaps on their Roubaix debut. They'll have been well aware of the mythology surrounding the ancient plumbing and it seemed they felt it the right thing to do.
Second, you had a handful of veterans, Tim Declercq and Jon Degenkolb among them, who seemed to see the use of the showers as as much a part of the rave as the cobbles themselves. To use a bus shower after Roubaix would be an anathema to them.
Degenkolb especially, as a former winner and unashamed lover of the cobbles, seemed totally at ease here, joyously swapping stories before getting changed in a booth bearing his name on the plaque. A booth, it should be added, that he had to remove his younger teammate from upon entering.
The third category of shower-goers was primarily confined to the riders who occupied the top and second step of the podium. Being sponsored by a shampoo brand, it was a no-brainer from a media point of view to have Mathieu van der Poel and Jasper Philipsen have a wash, but it must be said that neither of them seemed particularly happy at the prospect. Van der Poel was in and out in under ten minutes in a carefully orchestrated lauvage.
Finally, you have the photographers, both professional and the team media kind. I have no experience in the number of photographers over the years but in the world of constantly shared media, I suspect it's more crowded with lenses these days than it has been in days of yore. I don't speak Flemish, but I didn't need to translate Philipsen remarking that “it's like an OnlyFans shoot in here”.
Media circus aside, the showers are far less frequented than they used to be. While reporting on the biggest races as a journalist and photographer is my job I am, first and foremost, a cycling fan.
While photographing the World Champion in the Roubaix showers after he's done the Flanders-Roubaix double is something only a handful of people will ever be able to say they've done, seeing John Degenkolb in there just because he loves it is the moment that's going to stay with me for a long time.
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