Soufflé Suissesse: Michel Roux Jr's recipe for the iconic Gavroche dish, as it leaves London after 56 years

The loss of Le Gavroche — which closes on Saturday, after 56 years of service — means many things. It means the capital is one two-star restaurant fewer and an icon down; it means Michel Roux Jr can relax a little; it means the loss of the soufflé Suissesse.

Restaurants and chefs make names for themselves, but rarely do dishes. But this did; nothing more than a cheese soufflé cooked on double cream, but something so rich and delicious that it became instantly revered. It is a taste not quickly forgotten.

A taste that Josh Barrie and I did not manage to summon when Roux was kind (mad?) enough to let us into the Gavroche kitchens to attempt the dish. That's another story — rather a funny one — and admittedly we went in blind, and both hungover. But below, Roux has kindly shared the proper recipe.

There's no doubt it's a tricky dish to master, especially at home, but it's worth the practice. There is utter comfort in the folds of this dish. It is a plate that consoles. There are many ways to serve it, and it works as a standalone, but a little fresh salad on the side lightens it. However you do it, make sure to toast Gavroche before the first bite.

Adapted with permission from Michel Roux Jr’s Le Gavroche Cookbook (2001, Weidenfeld & Nicholson)

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 45g butter
• 45g plain flour
• 500ml milk
• 5 egg yolks
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 6 egg whites
• 600ml double cream (though a little more won't hurt)
• 200g Gruyère or Emmental cheese, grated

Method

1. Heat the oven to 200˚C/400˚F/gas mark 6. As it warms, butter four 8cm-diameter tartlet moulds — really do go heavy with the butter, it's necessary.
2. Melt the butter in a thick-based saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, for about a minute. Whisk in the milk little by little, creating your béchamel sauce, then boil for 3 minutes, whisking all the time to prevent any lumps from forming.
3. Beat in the yolks and remove from the heat, and season well with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a piece of buttered greaseproof paper to prevent a skin from forming.
4. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form firm but not stiff peaks.
5. Add a third of the egg whites to the yolk mixture and beat with a whisk until evenly mixed, then gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Spoon the mixture into the pre-buttered tartlet moulds and place in the oven for 3 minutes, until the tops begin to turn golden.
6. Meanwhile, season the cream with a little salt, then warm it gently and pour into a gratin dish. Turn the soufflés out into the cream (a palette knife may help here), sprinkle the grated cheese over them, then return them to the oven for 5 minutes. This will get them to rise again.
7. To brown the tops, either place under a hot grill or go gently with a blow torch.
8. Serve immediately.