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Lesley Oldfield

Soju & Gogi Korean BBQ in Newcastle brings a new flavour - and experience - to the city

The old adage goes that if you want something doing, do it yourself. It does not typically apply to restaurant patrons cooking their own meals.

However, that is one of the prime allures of new Korean barbecue restaurant Soju and Gogi, where the prospect of grilling your own dinner is all part of the experience.

There are plenty of other options on the menu which don’t require any culinary DIY but if you think that this all sounds like a bit of a busman’s holiday, think again.

Where is it and what is it like?

(Newcastle Chronicle)

Replacing the Chinese restaurant Hei Hei, Soju and Gogi has maintained the Far Eastern presence on Newcastle's Dean Street and since opening in August.

Very little has changed in terms of the décor. There is still more red and black than a roulette table and it has kept its modern aesthetic. The main difference is to accommodate a key facet of the menu, with barbecue grills built into some of the tables.

Upon arrival, the staff asked if we were planning to have any barbecue, which gets you thinking about what to have before you have even seen a menu. Spare yourself the trouble: yes, you will have some barbecue.

Whether it was the fact it was a Sunday or the fact the restaurant had only been open a matter of weeks, it was extremely quiet during our visit with little hustle or bustle. Hopefully that will change soon and its location is certainly right in the middle of the city.

Starters

Guests have the choice of six appetisers – all of which sounded delicious – but before all that, we were given some kimchi – salted and fermented vegetables – which offered a sharp and curiously moreish introduction to Korean cuisine.

The chicken mandu (deep-fried dumplings) were the cheapest of the starters (£5.95) but are well worth a go – not greasy, rich in flavour and stuffed full of filling.

It’s hard to go wrong with chicken wings (£6.95) but these also did not disappoint. Deep-fried and coated in a smoky sauce that was stickier than a tube of glue, the chicken was tender and the marinade was wonderful.

The bulgogi summer rolls (£6.95) rounded off the starters and also impressed. A recommendation of the waiter, thinly sliced steak and vegetables were loaded into rice paper wraps, almost like wafer-thin pancakes. The meat was tender and perfectly done, the vegetables added a welcome crunch and the accompanying sauce was a perfect compliment.

From left: deep-fried sesame chicken wings; homemade kimchi, bulgogi summer rolls, and chicken mandu at Soju and Gogi in Dean Street, Newcastle (Newcastle Chronicle)

Main courses

With traditional soups, stir fry dishes, noodles, and rice dishes on the menu, there is something for everyone – but there’s no denying the fact that the barbecue list is the section that will most capture the imagination.

Intrigue took over and two of us shared a meat feast (£31.95), which was made up of pork belly, marinated pork neck, beef bulgogi, spicy chicken and BBQ chicken. The waiter provided plenty of tips to guide us through things – and with it being quiet, he cooked almost half of the meal himself, perhaps fearing we might make a mess of things.

Just like being able to see into a busy kitchen, there is something immensely satisfying about seeing the food being prepared in front of you, which is only heightened when you get involved yourself.

Diners cook the meats themselves on a barbecue at their table at Soju and Gogi in Dean Street, Newcastle (Newcastle Chronicle)

Served with onions and nestled in lettuce leaf "cups" and with homemade chilli sauce and sesame oil sauce on hand, you get a blissful array of different flavours and textures but as much as anything, it’s just a fun experience that I would recommend everyone should try (seafood and vegetable options are also available for the barbecue).

Our other companion tried the bokum udon noodles with mixed vegetables (£9.95). Despite being thick, stir-fried noodles, they were not too heavy and really soft, and once again the vegetables were perfectly cooked. If you don’t fancy any barbecue, you could do worse than try this.

One thing to bear in mind is that there are no desserts – so you might as well fight for that extra bit of pork off the barbecue, though we all left feeling comfortably full.

Bokum udon noodles with mixed vegetables at Soju and Gogi in Dean Street, Newcastle (Newcastle Chronicle)

Anything else?

Even accounting for the fact that the restaurant was not particularly busy, the service is truly second to none. The staff provided a slew of recommendations, nothing seemed too much trouble and even though you are meant to do it yourself on the barbecue, they were happy to show us novices what to do.

While the experience itself was top class and hugely enjoyable, the bill snapped us back to reality as it came to £96.45 for the three of us, with a starter each, the mains and two drinks each. There was even a £2 charge for extra lettuce, which really encapsulated the fact it’s cheerful but certainly not cheap.

Pork belly, marinated pork neck, beef bulgogi, spicy chicken and BBQ chicken are all included in the meat feast, which diners cook themselves on a grill in the table at Soju and Gogi in Dean Street, Newcastle. It comes with sesame oil, a chilli dip and lettuce (Newcastle Chronicle)

The verdict

Excellent food with a fun twist in a funky, modern setting. As an experience, Soju and Gogi is something I would very much recommend everyone trying it at least once.

Soju and Gogi is at 46 Dean Street, Newcastle, NE1 1PG. Tel: 0191 222 0288

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