This London Fashion Week, a penchant for performers appears to be catching on.
Yesterday afternoon S.S. Daley, winner of 2022’s €300,000 LVMH Prize, scaled up his offering, presenting a multifaceted collection which opened with a very special guest.
Esteemed Britsh actor Sir Ian McKellen gave a dramatic reading of the poem The Coming of Arthur by Alfred Lord Tennyson. He walked into the Outernet gig space, by Tottenham Court Road, in darkness, before lights flashed up and guests took in his sailor-inspired outfit, including a beret, silk scarf and billowing, navy trousers. Eyes were drawn to the naked man printed on his pea coat, however. Show notes explained it was inspired by the idea of having “a life-drawing of his lover attached to the front like a keepsake.”
His impassioned performance made US Vogue’s Dame Anna Wintour smile on the front row, before he drifted off the catwalk and made way for the string of models who stormed out with purpose.
The collection itself took queer love at sea as its focal point and nautical ropes details and duffle coats punctuated the collection. Suggestive touches including sequined briefs and exposed toros ensured Steven Stokey-Daley’s quintessential cheekiness was ever present. Another highlight were appliqué Wedgewood plates, which made for unexpected additions to fluid silk gowns and long-sleeve jerseys alike.
McKellen came out to take a bow with the designer, and left the room in raptures of applause. It comes after Harris Reed’s AW23 collection on Thursday night saw Florence Pugh recite a Shakespeare-inspired verse in a similar style. Labrum London’s collection on Sunday night also began with a piece of spoken word, musing over the migrant experience.
