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Two weeks ago, when I read the open letter from 70 of London’s best and brightest female chefs denouncing and drawing attention to sexism in hospitality, I let out a sigh of elation. As someone who works not in the industry but adjacent to it — as a restaurant PR and writer — it’s no secret to me that some kitchens are a hotbed of sexism, harassment and offensive behaviour masqueraded as casual “banter”.
The open letter led to an outpouring on social sharing, with people applauding the chefs and telling their own stories. It prompted a rallying cry: not just from chefs, but from waitresses and kitchen workers across the country, each calling out the toxic and unwanted behaviour they’d experienced.
It’s something everyone who’s worked in the industry will know. Before I worked in PR, I spent 10 years working in restaurants, hotels and bars, here and abroad. In one of Australia’s most famous restaurants, I remember the middle-aged head chef, sweating as leered at me, telling me to “sex up my appearance” to get more tips. Tips that were split evenly with kitchen staff. I was 18-years-old. The UK wasn’t much better: chefs would put money on who was going to sleep with me first. And I’d be repeatedly be spanked — hard — with wet tea towels.
And though the industry has spoken, the question is: what’s next?
A fortnight on from the publishing of the open letter, and it’s feels fair to say that the noise online feels as though it has piqued and plateaued, which is a real shame. Whilst many women have shared powerful and impactful stories online, there’s a classic sense of British kitchen mentality — keep calm and carry on.
Chefs would put money on who was going to sleep with me first. And I’d be repeatedly be spanked — hard — with wet tea towels
But what’s needed, and what’s wanted, is real, tangible change. What sort of thing? To start with, the support from male restaurant owners, general managers and chefs. Those that are in leadership positions need to take a critical look at their workforce and incite change.
Secondly, there must be recognition that sexism in the kitchens doesn’t just cover inappropriate behaviour. There is disparity elsewhere. Female chefs are still being paid less; female chefs still don’t see enough women in leadership roles. And women face challenges men simply don’t: it is a difficult, unforgiving job to return to after childbirth, especially given the typically inflexible hours.
What might help? Blind hiring processes, to swerve unconscious bias; an offer of childcare support; fair pay enforced between colleagues.
The truth is, too, hospitality is by and large a male-dominated industry; perhaps this is why, in part, the sexism was allowed to flourish in the first place. A better balance is needed. How to draw more women into the industry? More female-oriented scholarships; grants from both businesses and government both to draw more women in, and to support those already working (for instance, for childcare). These might also help support mentoring schemes, allowing women to more easily pass on and share what they’ve learnt — including what not to stand for.
In the meantime, the open letter is available to be read anywhere, including here on the Standard. Two weeks ago, there was lots of noise. Now it’s time for more. Read it and share it again, whether you’re a man or a woman. Let's keep the conversation going.
Kara Buffrey is a Senior Account Director overseeing the hospitality division at W Communications. For more, follow @karabuffrey11
