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Edinburgh Live
Edinburgh Live
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Lee Dalgetty

Seven of Edinburgh's most notorious pubs that had a story to tell

Long before craft beers and gastropubs, Edinburgh locals were no stranger to a lukewarm pint in a smoke-filled 'rough and ready' pub - rubbing shoulders with the city's toughest folks.

Many of these fine establishments are long gone - either demolished, derelict, or transformed into some of Edinburgh's most distinguished bars. The memories, however, live on and we've picked through some of the city's toughest pubs from the past that are sorely missed.

Plenty of these pubs saw their fair share of 'action', and some of them had the strictest landlords in the east. If you can think of a more rugged Edinburgh watering hole, let us know.

READ MORE - Edinburgh's lost 'house of horrors' that was the go-to cinema for skiving schoolkids

The Gunner

Down in Muirhouse, The Gunner had a reputation throughout Edinburgh for being on the rougher side.

The pub called last orders for the final time in 2015, with the building eventually demolished. While they were open, beer was served in plastic tumblers to avoid any glassing situations.

Even the chip shop next door had systems in place to protect the staff. In one event that captured The Gunner, a thief who had raided a jewellers earlier that day made his way to the pub to sell his stolen Rolex watches to punters.

In 2013, Alexander Lawrie was sentenced with attempted murder after stabbing a fellow pub-goer. Meeting his victim in The Gunner, the group headed off to a party after closing time - and with Alexander uninvited, he attacked one of the group.

The Castle Tavern

As if flat-roofed pubs weren't intimidating enough, try a flat-roofed pub with an Alsatian on top.

It was not unusual to see an Alsatian pacing the roof of Craigmillar's Castle Tavern.

The landlords, and owners of the dog, allowed the pooch to trot around - perhaps as a form of security. Many locals will remember this sight, and some will remember the often rowdy scenes that took place in the walls of the Castle Tavern.

Discussing the pub in the Lost Edinburgh Facebook group, Frances Baillie commented: "I worked there when it first opened, Maud and George ran it.

"Some very rough nights in there, ducking under the bar when the pint pots were flying, but good times as well."

William Good had similar memories: "I grew up in Craigmillar and never ventured in there. A bit rough to say the least."

The building has since been demolished, and has become a Tesco Express - which as far as we're aware has no dogs on the roof.

Robertson’s

Right across from Tynecastle Park, Robertson’s was painted in the signature Hearts colours - and had a zero tolerance approach on away supporters.

The pub was no stranger to police presence, and would often see a bust-up after a Saturday match.

In 2009, Hearts legend John Robertson, who owned the establishment, announced he was closing the venue. He said an ongoing problem with troublemakers was a factor: “That wasn’t the reason we closed it.

“But I would say it has been a battle trying to root out problem elements and that helped us make up our minds.”

In 2014, in a move towards a more family friendly vibe - the pub reopened at Pryde’s Bar. The new manager commented on a pub's inability to survive based on being packed for five hours every second Saturday.

This dream was short-lived, with the venue rebranding as Entwine in 2015 before eventually closing up shop.

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The Dundee Arms

Prior to its refurb in the 00s, The Fountain was known as the Dundee Arms - a spot known for violence so strongly it was dubbed ‘The Vietnam’.

In 1984, Tom Fergusson with the Lothian & Borders Police, investigated the murder of a ‘Vietnam’ regular. He said: “At the time, it was the last place you would think of going for a quiet drink, never mind a meal.

“In my time, there were two murders in or outside the place and numerous stabbings.”

Regulars learned to keep on high alert while in the Dundee Arms, and many argued that it was not child-friendly, and not really friendly at all.

Thankfully, the pub's reputation has faded over the years. The Fountain now enjoys a sterling reputation, with one TripAdvisor review reading: “The staff are friendly and attentive, the service is speedy and reliable, the food is tasty.”

Fairley's

When someone tells you to watch your back in a pub, you're probably not expecting a large wild cat to be the issue.

At Fairley's at the Shore in Leith, that's exactly what was happening. The landlord, Ian Black, kept a puma in a cage on the bar.

The wild cat was known to hiss and spit at customers throughout the evening, before the strange pet was eventually removed from the venue. One local woman, Marjory Williamson, was mauled by the cat while making her way back from the toilets.

The case was taken to Edinburgh Sheriff Court in March 1976, with the landlord charged based on the terms that he: "Did keep and allow to at large, without being under any appropriate care, restraint or control, a puma belonging to him or under his charge, or his possession, while members of the public were in said public house, and said puma attacked and injured and did recklessly disregard the lives and safety of the public.”

Recalling the incident on the Edinphoto website, Eric Gold said: "My big brother, Tam, told me of the puma. I thought he was joking but it was true."

"The puma was in a cage to the right of the bar. He hissed and spat at the customers all night. What a beast! I felt sorry for him as he should not have been there."

The Westfield Bar

The Westfield Bar in Gorgie had its licensed removed by the city's licensing board in the wake of a police report in 2009.

A council mobile CCTV vehicle had parked across the road, following a string of complaints from locals, and captured the brawl with over 20 people involved. The footage contained punches, kicks, and a glassing.

The board ruled that licensee Victoria Glanville was no longer a 'fit and proper' person to hold a license, with local residents complaining of match-day revellers and drunks breaking into stairways.

The pub reopened under the name Murrayfield Sports Bar, which had it's fair share of action before cleaning the place up. In 2012, around a dozen drinkers were involved in another brawl - some holding pool cues as weapons.

At the time, Edinburgh City Council increased its CCTV coverage and upped the officers patrolling the area - with the pub seeing a dramatic turn in violent outbreaks since.

Volunteer Arms

Towards the foot of Leith Walk sits the Volunteer Arms, a pub which has transformed itself over the years.

Featuring prominently in Trainspotting, the ‘Volly’ had a strong reputation as a working man’s drinking hole. In the film, the venue is where it ‘all goes wrong’ when Begbie loses the plot after a game of pool.

In 2012, the pub was gutted by fire. Dozens fled the bar and the surrounding tenements, after the blaze started in the basement.

Two years later, the venue saw a £70,000 transformation and reopened as the Cask & Still - a trendy bar that brought in a very different clientele. With a newly formed reputation, the pub eventually became The Mousetrap which sits on Leith Walk today.

A Yelp review of The Mousetrap made in 2018 tells us: “If you’re down Leith Walk, and looking for a friendly pub, the Mousetrap comes highly recommended. A good selection of drinks, nibbles, eclectic decor make this well worth checking out.”

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