It was a dark day last June when Christopher Kane announced he would be shuttering the label he founded after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2006. Not only did it highlight the dire state of affairs for independent designers today, but it also marked the end of an era for one of the city’s most prolific and interesting designers.
So it’s no surprise that Kane’s partnership with fellow London-based brand Self-Portrait has had his long-term fans (like me) rejoicing. Kane is the inaugural designer for its new residency programme, with his 30-piece collection going on sale last week. Taking inspiration from his groundbreaking spring/summer 2007 debut — which consisted of acid-bright neon bandage dresses trimmed with lace, studded with diamantes and cinched at the waist with safety clasp belts — the designs are reinterpreted in a softer colour palette for a whole new generation.
Self-Portrait was founded in 2013 by Han Chong. Serving as creative director, he said of the new programme: “Self-Portrait Residency represents an ambition I’ve had for years: to create a space where creatives can come together, experiment freely, and shape something entirely unique. By opening our studio doors and resources to others, we’re building a community that values collaboration over competition, with each Resident being invited to share their own distinctive voice.”
He and Kane worked together from the brand’s headquarters in London. “Christopher Kane has been the perfect first Resident, not only have we learnt an enormous amount from him, he has also set the tone for this programme by giving us all access to his inimitable designs and having fun along the way.”
In a world where ‘quiet luxury’ and ‘old money’ style continues to dominate, we need Christopher Kane now more than ever. Not only do his clothes look just as relevant as they did 17 years ago (although the Self-Portrait versions are not exact replicas) but who else could make rhinestones, lace and ruffled cut-outs look chic? There’s a reason he was tapped by Donatella Versace to head up Versace’s Versus line from 2009 to 2012. A designer who has constantly straddled good and bad taste, with a tongue-in-cheek sense of humour, it’s safe to say they don’t make them like Christopher Kane anymore.
Of his new collection, Kane said: “It has been an absolute joy working with Han and his incredible team. From the very beginning, the energy and creativity have been infectious, making this entire experience so fulfilling. I am thrilled to finally share with the world what we’ve been creating together. This partnership celebrates the spirit of collaboration, and I couldn't be more proud of what we’ve achieved.”
With hosiery starting at £30, knitwear at £320 and satin dresses from £420, these accessibly priced pieces won’t last for long. I’ve got my eye on the lace socks, pink crystal bag and the matching skirt, although the campaign featuring Carine Roitfield makes a strong case to opt for everything in black.
I don’t remember the first piece of Christopher Kane I bought, but I do remember buying an ASOS knock-off version of his autumn/winter 2011 jelly-filled clutch bags for my own university graduation.
In a full circle moment, while scouring eBay this weekend (inspired by the brand’s comeback) I managed to score a similar one from his subsequent 2019 collection. A pill-shaped purse containing royal blue liquid, with a giant crystal wrist-strap that I plan on wearing to the upcoming British Fashion Awards (it was also worn by Lena Denham to the 2019 Met Gala…just saying).
Over the years, thanks to my obsessive nature, I have managed to find many a Christopher Kane gem on resale sites and platforms. Highlights include a floral applique and embroidery strappy dress similar to his autumn/winter 2010 collection, brand new and complete with tags, for £40 on Depop (it was a size 16 but I got it taken in, making the total a fraction of the original cost).
A white button-down back, black tape covered dress that I won on eBay originating from his spring/summer 2013 collection is one of my most prized possessions (pictured below), despite it being an absolute nightmare to clean. And a red patent leather coat with rich black shearling lining, sourced by eBay’s fabulous style director Amy Bannerman, was given to me last year at a styling session. Bannerman said she had to fight off other editors prying hands to save it for me, after stalking my Instagram and noticing I was a huge fan of the brand.
All of this is to say that if the new Self-Portrait collection still isn’t enough for you, fear not. Below I have compiled a list of the best second-hand Christopher Kane buys — you’re welcome. And if anyone reading this wants to bring back the label full time, rest assured you’d have at least one very loyal customer.
