A sinister laugh resounds from the floor to the rafters of Britain’s oldest static circus building, telling us instantly that we’re in for a thriller.
The hisses and boos of the audience echo loudly around the majestic Hippodrome in Great Yarmouth when Mr Mullins, the evil fairground owner, lays out his fiendish plans to capture local heroes Jack Jay and Johnny Mac.
The Hippodrome is the country’s last remaining venue constructed entirely for circus, an historic building brought to life through it’s joyful performers.
My five-year-old daughter cowers in fear watching death-defying stunts by acrobats suspended mid-air. Moments later my nine-year-old falls back into her seat in fits of giggles over jokes meant to entertain the adults in the audience.
We watch in awe as a contortionist squeezes herself into a small box, clap with delight at a seemingly impossible aerial stunt and cheer loudly when doltish Johnny saves the day and stops the villainous Mullins – played bewitchingly by James Franklin.
After the superb show we stroll through the belly of the historic building to its museum, which is home to props and posters of bygone years. The artefacts – some more than 120 years old – conjure images of the hundreds of shows enjoyed before ours.
In 1903, when the Hippodrome was built, Great Yarmouth was a popular summer seaside destination and has been ever since. But on a winter short break with my family, I’m eager to discover its winter charms.
Our home away from home during our trip to Norfolk is Rose Cottage, a cosy gem tucked away in the quaint village of Winterton-on-Sea, a 20-minute drive north along the coast from Great Yarmouth. A log burner at the heart of the snug living room is perfect for cooler evenings.
Up to four guests can stay across the two comfortable bedrooms and four-legged friends are also welcome at the self-catering cottage, which lies just a stone’s throw away from Winterton’s sandy beaches.
At the beach, the sun blazes down on miles and miles of golden sand, stretching as far as the eye can see. Families play with pet dogs, horse riders pootle along the shoreline, while nature enthusiasts gather with binoculars, keenly trying to spot grey seals.
While traversing around this beautiful corner of East Anglia you can’t help but trip over important historic sites. After a delicious Sunday roast at Branford’s restaurant in Caister-on-Sea, we spot a small sign pointing to Caister Roman Fort. Intrigued, we pull into a lay-by and walk into what looks like a small park but is actually the ruins of a fort.
In some parts of the world there would be a hefty price tag to see this large display of Roman history – thought to be part of a chain of coastal forts along what the Romans knew as the ‘Saxon Shore’ – but we have the whole site to ourselves to explore for free.
Inspired by the area’s many wildlife watchers, we head to Horsey Gap to do some grey seal spotting. During the late autumn and winter, these shores belong to a huge colony of seals during pupping season.
We watch awe-struck as hundreds of seals lounge along the coastline. A handful frolic in the foam as a friendly warden gives us more information about seals in Horsey.
“There’s 250 on this groin, around 200 on the next and I’m not sure about further on,” she tells me. “But it’s still early in the season, soon there will be thousands.”
We only spot two snow-white seal pups during our trip, but are told that within a few weeks there will be hundreds.
A short distance away, Great Yarmouth offers all the frivolity that one would expect at a British seaside town. Our first stop is the Time and Tide Museum, offering an interactive look through the history of the coastal town. The museum, set in an old fish curing site, tells the story of Great Yarmouth and its herring industry and still has the lingering aroma of a smokehouse.
Next we take a leisurely stroll though The Venetian Waterways, home to winding canals snaking through ornamental gardens, with interlinking walkways and islands to explore. Feeling adventurous, we decide to take a pedalo out on the boating lake, letting the children take it in turns to steer until a near-miss at the lake’s bubbling fountain.
After a spot of exercise we get some lunch at the nearby four-star Imperial Hotel, taking in views from the Terrace Restaurant which span for miles. We watch boats slowly chug past as we order haddock and chips with a delicious malt vinegar jam.
After lunch we really get stuck into seaside antics, taking a stroll through the charming Merrivale Model Village before heading to the dizzy heights of the Pleasure Beach. I particularly enjoy a stomach-flipping ride on the traditional wooden rollercoaster, which opened almost a century ago.
The children meanwhile are enthralled by some of the traditional fairground rides and games, and when offered the chance for ‘one last ride’ they choose the YoYo – a merry-go style ride with swings suspended in the air.
The children are also overjoyed to explore Great Yarmouth’s Sea Life centre, where highlights include the mesmerising jelly fish, waddling penguins and a colony of ants which busy themselves around visitors. My husband anxiously points out that one of the ants has escaped, only to be told to look up at thousands navigating purpose-built ant highways a few feet above our heads.
Our visit ends with an unexpected firework display near the Pleasure Beach, with golden stars and loud bangs seeing out the end to a fabulous break on the Norfolk coast.
How to plan your trip
A week’s stay at Rose Cottage costs from £552.60. Visit wintertoncottages.co.uk.
For more information on the destination, go to visitgreatyarmouth.co.uk.
