New South Wales
Take the plunge in Sydney’s ocean pools
It’s a truth universally unacknowledged that in winter, the ocean temperature in Sydney is often warmer than the air (and certainly warmer than the inside of our poorly insulated homes). So when the days turn crisp and the tourists dissipate, I like to squeeze into my swimming wetsuit and neoprene bathing cap, pop in my earplugs (to stave off surfer’s ear) and slide into one of the city’s 30 or so ocean pools, which extend from Palm beach in the north to Cronulla in the south.
There’s the initial hit of numbness as you break the glassy surface, then an inner warmth envelops as you out stretch out into the water, nothing but seagrass or sand or a straight black line beneath you. Afterwards you feel cleansed, reset, superhuman.
– Janine Israel
Brews and thermal pools near Tumut
New South Wales’ Riverina region provides cosy vibes during the colder months.
In winter you can rug up and go for a crisp morning walk along the river with the ducks, grab a ginger beer at the Tumut River Brewing Co or drive to the nearby mountain town of Batlow to catch a glimpse of the snow. Just over an hour away is Yarrangobilly Caves in the Kosciuszko national park, where you can swim in the 27C spring-fed thermal pool all year round or hike along the meandering river.
– Emily Wind
Cold hikes and hot soaks in the Blue Mountains
You can’t go past the Blue Mountains for a winter weekend getaway. Every second hotel or restaurant has a Christmas in July special that extends well into August, but if you want to get away from the hustle and bustle, head to Mount Victoria. Hotel Etico is a delightful social enterprise set in an old Fairfax mansion, with a restaurant and bar that has live music on Fridays.
The Victoria & Albert Guest House and Cedar Lodge Cabins are also within walking distance from the train station and village centre. There are plentiful hikes or – in case of rain – Mount Vic Flicks should do the trick. It is only a 20 minute drive from the spectacular Japanese Bath House overlooking Lake Lyell – a perfect recovery from the thigh-busting trek to Victoria Falls.
– Gabrielle Jackson
Victoria
Three-dog nights in Dinner Plain
As someone who doesn’t ski, my snow holidays have two requirements: dog friendly, with cosy places to drink mulled wine. Dinner Plain ticks both boxes excellently. About 13 km from Mount Hotham and 375km from Melbourne, the Victorian village has plenty of opportunities for skiing, tobogganing and snowboarding. But it is also extremely dog friendly, with no permits required to bring your furry friends along. It’s in the town’s DNA – sled dog racing, held over two days in August, has been an annual event for more than 25 years, while the ambitious among us can also book their own husky sled dog tour.
Despite its small size, Dinner Plain is packed with restaurants, cafes and pubs, many of which hold lovely open fires inside and outside in the cooler months. There is nothing quite like a glass of red in a cosy chalet while watching your dog frolic in the snow.
– Caitlin Cassidy
All’s quiet on the Great Ocean Road
A man sits on a bench by the Lorne swing bridge as his gangly poodle gallops into the water where the Erskine River meets the sea. “Isn’t this just a great spot?” he says, waving a wrinkled hand through the cold air. The foreshore is empty except for a few other dog walkers. “Yes,” I reply.
It’s a stark contrast to Lorne in summer, when the surf town overflows with visitors jostling for positions on the sand, in the waves and in the cafes. Winter reveals a quieter side. The ocean might be too cold for swimming (unless you’re seeking the benefits of an ice bath) but you don’t need beach weather to enjoy this part of the Great Ocean Road.
For me, the magic of Lorne is in the surrounding Great Otway national park and its giant eucalyptus trees, fern gullies, caves, cascades and waterfalls.
Bird enthusiasts, keep your eyes peeled as you explore the many walking trails: the forest is alive with robins, wrens, finches, parrots and kookaburras.
– Rick Goodman
Queensland
Underrated eating in the sunshine state’s cold spot
Stanthorpe makes headlines most winters for its freezing mornings and predictions of snow that rarely pan out. But what this small Queensland town lacks in ski slopes, it makes up for in food. On the edge of town, in a renovated workers cottage, Essen is one of the most impressive, delicious and unheralded restaurants in the southern hemisphere.
They change their set menu every week, feature seasonal produce from the area and only serve 30 people a sitting. Their menu at the moment features torched Port Lincoln sardines with khmeli suneli and nigella lavosh and a chocolate dessert that will have you wondering what south-east Queensland did to deserve this establishment.
While that’s dinner sorted, I’d suggest heading to Granite Belt farmers markets the next day for brekky. It hosts a number of small producers, including Cam’s Bread which serves bottomless filter coffee and the most incredible sourdough choc chip cookies. You could easily spend the rest of the day exploring Girraween national park then defrosting at some of the nearby wineries.
– Molly Glassey
Waterfall swims in the Atherton Tablelands
While international visitors flock to the reef, an entirely different and no less naturally wondrous side of Far North Queensland can be found under an hour’s drive south west of Cairns.
While the Atherton Tablelands’ daily high temps often rise well into the mid-20s in winter, the altitude is too high for saltwater crocodiles. This means swimming in the region’s lakes and waterfalls can be bracing, but it is a mostly fear-free experience.
For a multi-swim day trip, drive the Waterfall Circuit, which will take you past three swimmable waterfalls, and into the pristine waters of Lake Barine (there is a resident freshie in the lake, but if you leave it in peace, it’ll do likewise).
In the evenings and early mornings, the temperatures drop and great wisps of mist rise from the steep green hills. Yungaburra has the area’s best eating options, but on cold nights Queensland’s highest pub, The Ravenshoe hotel, is worth dropping into.
Atherton’s rainforests are home to hard-to-spot tree kangaroos and plants that have survived for centuries. On my visit, I caught a glimpse of the former and had a good look at the latter on a visit to the astonishing Cathedral fig tree – which at 500 years old and 50m tall, is as breathtaking as any church it’s named for.
For a drastic change in scene and much bigger kangaroos, head into the desert slightly farther west for a rustic spa day at Innot Hot Springs. If you’re willing to brave a muddy creek you can soak for free, but the caravan park has six thermal pools that drop-in visitors can access for $10.
On my visit, I slept at Usnea, an artful modern cottage in a private nature reserve bordering Herberton Range national park. It is run by a pair of passionate environmentalists and is one of the loveliest places I have stayed in Australia. Just make sure to check yourself for ticks if you happen to lie down in a grassy clearing under the stars.
– Alyx Gorman
Tasmania
Strip off for southern exposures
On the edge of winter, I shivered through twenty laps at Launceston’s 50m outdoor pool. Sitting in the middle of the Cataract Gorge, surrounded by thick forest, it is so stunning you can’t not get in. After your laps you can head into town, just 15 minutes on foot. Pick up a nice bottle of plonk from The Pinot Shop on the way, or stop for coffee at Stillwater. Eat kimchi pancakes at the Harvest Market, or warm yourself by the fire in Royal Oak, which now runs regular queer nights.
Hit the nearby natural beauty hard – Cradle Mountain, Mole Creek or Liffey Falls. For those who love a sauna, there is one floating on the lake at Derby you will never forget. Skip Hobart, all they’ve got is a gallery – go north instead.
– Cait Kelly
