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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Entertainment
Chloe Street

Sam Smith, Christian Cowan and Altuzarra — the latest from New York Fashion Week

Sam Smith shut down the Brit Awards on Saturday in an inflatable black latex jumpsuit by emerging London designer Harri. In New York this week, they brought their sartorial A-game once again by taking a seat on the front row at Christian Cowan’s New York Fashion Week show in a glittering silver coat.

The singer, who is reportedly dating the New York-based British designer, was joined on the f’row by rapper Lil Nas X and actress Bella Thorne.

Earlier in the evening the fashion pack had descended on the New York City Public Library where Joseph Altuzarra unveiled a romantic, sunset-hued vision for Autumn 2023 heavily inspired by mythology and nature.

The show marked the half-Chinese, half-French designer’s fourth since he returned to the New York Fashion Week schedule from Paris in September 2021, and the culmination of a four-part series inspired mythological texts.

The collection began and ended with parkas. The first came in watery leaf prints evocative of Rorschach tests, and were followed by a series of ombre knit sheer maxi dresses. Botanical prints abounded throughout, as twinkling golden leaf embellishments on gowns or flowery landscapes created using the shibori dying technique that’s become a brand signature.

Eveningwear was the strong suit: draped and hooded stretch jersey grecian gowns, floor-grazing leather fishtail skirts and leather column dresses.

The parkas that closed were in fact full-skirted satin ballgowns with dramatic fur-trimmed hoods. Altuzarra’s dressed the likes of Rihanna, Cate Blanchett and Lana Del Rey and these kooky coat-gowns had obvious awards season red carpet appeal.

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