Tucked away on the edge of remote Spey Bay in Moray, Scotland, a Scottish smokehouse is busy crafting what it believes is the finest smoked salmon in the UK. The smokehouse dates back to 1913 and has a lengthy history within the Spey smoking industry. One of three run by local seafood specialists, its success is built on a deep understanding of environment and community.
“I have been smoking since 1986,” says Associated Seafoods’ master smoker Roy Stevens. “There’s no written formula on how to smoke salmon – but we have knowledge and experience behind us. When I joined the company in 2011, my task was to experiment with materials to create a distinct smoke taste and texture.”
After commercial director Neil Greig arrived in 2014, Stevens’ team was tasked with developing a unique, premium-quality smoked salmon for M&S customers. To do this, Stevens combined the best attributes of modern mechanical kilns – where temperature, air speed, humidity and, therefore, drying rate can be easily controlled – with the traditional kiln, where wood is burned slowly to impart deep flavours.
“Our smoked salmon is a beautiful blend of salt and smoke,” says Stevens. “Everything is earthy, and we treat the process with respect. We assess the fish, whether it’s fatty or oily, and adjust the salting times around that. Our salting varies seasonally because the fat content varies seasonally. This is not a science – it’s a craft, it’s experience and has an artisan quality.”
To start the smoking process, he uses the mechanical kiln, where the fillets are dried for six to eight hours, while pure oak chip burns. Then it’s on to a traditional kiln, where the smoking continues, this time using wood chips from spent whisky casks. The result is a “twice-smoked” salmon, deeply flavoured and well textured with a “velvety mouth” feel.
“We are not only at the heart of fishing country, but also whisky country,” says Greig. “We get fresh, spent whisky barrels that still have a dampness and aroma to them, which we chip and burn within a couple of weeks from the whisky being extracted. It’s a part of how we create this genuinely brilliant product.”
The salmon is smoked in kilns using wood chips from whisky casks
In addition to this Scottish smoked salmon, M&S stocks Associated Seafoods’ smoked sockeye salmon, sourced from a single wild salmon run in Kodiak, Alaska. This fish is handcrafted due to its delicacy, and holds a more subtly smoked, rounded taste with a vanilla sweetness to it. The company also produces a Scottish smoked salmon with a lemon and pepper garnish, and, for this Christmas, a Signature citrus and dill.
“We are clear on the values we hold as a business,” says Greig. “Product quality is a given and we partner with suppliers who align with our principles and philosophies, such as integrity and a commitment to the environment. We have also made a commitment to the community, so youngsters feel they can join the seafood business with pride.”
The company works closely with the local high school, running mentorship programmes and cooking competitions. “The students come in to be mentored by our staff, then, once they finish school, some come back to work for us,” Stevens says. Those who join the team can expect plenty of in-house training.
Greig says: “We have made a commitment to the premium quality, the staff, the communities and our customers. In a world that is ever changing, we will continue this way.”
Karen Edwards is the author of The Planet-Friendly Kitchen
This is not just smoked salmon ...
... this is M&S Collection Scottish smoked salmon, made with pride by Stevens and M&S. Find it at your local M&S foodhall.
M&S Food is proud to be sponsoring the Best Producer category at the 2022 Observer Food Monthly Awards. M&S has a passion for provenance, and works with the best growers, suppliers and makers in the industry, all of whom share its high standards. Find out more about M&S Select Farms producers
