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Newcastle Herald
Newcastle Herald
National

Rogue vines lead Thomas to successful new territory

Andrew Thomas with son Dan, who is following his father's footsteps as a winemaker.

It's a recent addition to the Thomas Wines portfolio, a semillon-chardonnay blend named, rather intriguingly, Vat 32.

Thomas doesn't use Vat numbers in his wine names - this is his only one - so what's the story?

"I was trying to come up with a name and kept thinking about Tyrrell's really successful blend of chardonnay and semillon called Vat 63," owner and winemaker Andrew Thomas said.

"I thought ours has to be at least half as good as theirs, so Vat 32 it was.

"I ran the name past the Tyrrell's guys and they had a good laugh, so that sealed the deal."

The reason it's significant is that the new wine - the second release has only just hit the shelves - marks a shift in Thomas's thinking. There's a new red too, but we'll come back to that.

For the more than 20 years since he started his own label he has dealt exclusively with shiraz and semillon, the Hunter's flagship varieties. At last count he did seven shiraz and seven semillons.

His only example of blending different varieties had been his Two of a Kind white - the ubiquitous, internationally popular semillon-sauvignon blanc blend, combining Hunter semillon with Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc.

So this is largely new territory - and ironically it came about by accident.

"I was walking through the Braemore vineyard and noticed a couple of rogue vines in amongst the semillon," he said.

"It was planted in 1969 and I suspect over time some gaps appeared and they were replanted with whatever vines were on hand at the time.

"So we marked those vines and planned to graft them back to semillon, but it meant when harvest came I had about half a tonne of chardonnay grapes alongside all the semillon.

"I've always enjoyed the Tyrrell's Vat 63 blend so I thought let's give it a try.

"It has been really popular ... 68 per cent semillon and 32 chardonnay and very different to anything else I do. The chardonnay adds weight and texture, the oak is very much in the background ... it's really nice drinking."

Thomas has since removed the chardonnay vines from his prized semillon vineyard and in future will buy his chardonnay from close mate Mike De Iuliis.

"The vines are gone, but the wine is definitely here to stay."

There is also new red in the recent releases, the DJV shiraz pinot noir - as in deja vu.

It's a nod to the wonderful old Hunter Burgundies of yesteryear, a 56-44 blend of shiraz and pinot noir. Again, new territory.

"Before I made it I got a heap of shiraz-pinot samples from all around, even as far as Yarra Yering in Victoria, to taste and compare," he said.

"Then I did a heap of different blends, but I didn't just want a shiraz with a dash of pinot. I finally settled on this much lighter wine and am very happy with it.

"It's so easy to drink. No wonder they're gaining popularity again."

WINE REVIEWS

POWER SHIRAZ

Penny's Hill Cracking Black Shiraz, 2022

$27

This is opulent and full-bodied with power aplenty. Deep purple, it has aromas of dark berries and spicy stewed meats. Blackberry, dark chocolate and aniseed flavours - full and concentrated - with a savoury edge to the finish. Definite cellaring potential too. For those who like their reds with oomph.

FRESH FROM TASSIE 

Pipers Brook Riesling, 2023

$40

This Tasmanian riesling is all about those crunchy green flavours ... citrus, lime and green apple. There's real drive and energy to the wine, and a slatey, mineral note as well. Loads of natural acidity means that while this is drinking superbly now, it has up to 10 years ahead of it.

WELL-ROUNDED CHARACTER

Thomas Vat 32 Semillon Chardonnay, 2023

$35

Pale lemon in colour, Vat 32's citrus bite of semillon comes first, followed by lemon and lime, before the more rounded mid-palate flavours of Hunter Valley chardonnay. There's stonefruit, white peach, red apple and pear, bringing a silky softness and depth. Loads of acidity but integrated and part of the package.

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