There’s no sleight of hand at Roe in Canary Wharf, the new London restaurant from the team behind eateries Fallow and Fowl. Unlike traditional dining venues, where the kitchen is shrouded in mystery, Roe brings everything front and centre. I realise this as I perch at the counter, where flames leap from sauté pans, infusing the air with the heady scents of spices, charred vegetables and grilled meats.
Positioned as the ‘grown-up’ counterpart to Fallow, Roe is named after the indigenous deer of the British Isles, which holds a special place in the hearts of its founders – chairman James Robson, alongside chefs Will Murray and Jack Croft – due to its role in the countryside’s biodiversity. Spread across three floors, the expansive 500-cover space, complete with a scenic wraparound terrace overlooking the South Dock Canal, is a collaboration between STAC Architecture and Studio Gossamer.
Step inside Roe, Canary Wharf's newest restaurant
The waterfront location may have informed the interior’s oceanic motifs, including red coral formations and turquoise accents. Studio Gossamer further embraced underwater influences through parametric design elements, including 3D-printed counter panels and a central ‘tree’ structure created based on the logarithmic growth data of corals. This theme extends to wall decorations and feature wall lighting, evoking a subtle interplay between fire and water.
The restaurant’s future-facing hospitality concept extends to the impressive aeroponic wall that greets arriving guests. Tended by a full-time gardener, the vertical plot yields fresh produce, with lemon verbena, butterfly sorrel, Padrón peppers and the Japanese strawberry variety ‘Oishii’ featured heavily throughout the menu.
The private dining spaces are equally noteworthy. The first, situated on a mezzanine above the main restaurant, is surrounded by an extensive collection of wine bottles. Meanwhile, the second, on the lower ground floor, boasts a soon-to-open private chef’s table with direct views of the kitchen.
Led by head chef Jon Bowring, the kitchen at Roe celebrates Britain’s often-overlooked ingredients. Each dining experience is a journey through the familiar, yet executed in its most innovative rendition.
Take, for example, a reinvention of the classic Cornish pasty, brimming with maitake and oyster mushrooms, enveloped in a rich Madeira gravy, and accompanied by a walnut ketchup that cuts through its earthy qualities. Another standout is the Blooming Onion side dish, a transformative take on the classic onion ring, served alongside pickled onion and garlic mayonnaise.
A commitment to zero waste persists throughout, extending to the dessert selection, as exemplified by the Caramelised Banana Parfait, in which the entire banana is utilised: the flesh is incorporated with mascarpone to make a luscious parfait, while the skin undergoes a 14-day immersion in vanilla syrup, followed by drying and frying to produce a delightful crisp garnish.
Roe’s extensive 300-bin wine collection, curated by wine consultant Victoria Sharples and head sommelier Ben Cardwell, will ensure a perfect pairing for the entire culinary journey, with a diverse range of organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wines.
Roe is located at 5 Park Dr, London
