British designer Richard Quinn created a winter wonderland and brought back Dior’s ‘new look’ silhouette almost 80 years later at autumn/winter 2025 London Fashion Week.
Quinn, 35, is famed for his classic, retro styling; often leaning into pared-down elegance, and this show was certainly no exception.
While the designs looked back to the greats of the past, as did the models, with 75-year-old Penelope Tree being cast in the show – a model who rose to prominence during the Swinging Sixties in London.
Quinn encompasses fewer theatrics and edgy thrills than his counterparts, instead opting for refined silhouettes, eye-catching embellishments and old-Hollywood glamour.
While his past collections have featured everything from latex to Lila Moss, the king of subversively joyous fashion seems to have stripped things back.
For his autumn/winter 2025 show, guests eagerly lined up in the soggy streets of St James, a canopy of bustling umbrellas keenly awaiting to enter.
Held in the Royal Horticultural Halls, Quinn transformed the ballroom into a winter wonderland, with a Georgian townhouse emblazoned with his name above the door and wrought iron gates guiding models through a glowing runway lined with street lamps and dusted with snow.
It was as though the show was encapsulated within a vintage snow globe.
As snow fell from the ceiling, classical strings began to play, and sumptuous silks, poufs and ruffles began to spill out onto the runway.
It seems inspiration lay in the likes of Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn.
Born in Lewisham, south-east London, Quinn’s cosmopolitan vintage style gowns are tailored in a humble studio in Peckham.
Despite being famed for his liberal use of loud florals and capacious ruffles; this collection took a more refined approach – showcasing monotoned silks, pitch dark velvets and elegant embellished gowns.
However, that’s not to say the collection wasn’t without his quintessential florals.
Large eighties-style roses washed evening gowns, with exaggerated shoulder pads and cinched wasp waists, blending the extremes of striking confidence and soft femininity.
Quinn’s bridal collection was the jewel in the crown, and it is no wonder his bridal designs are currently booming.
Rumoured to be the next Vivienne Westwood when it comes to British wedding gowns, it comes as no surprise that Quinn’s designs are flourishing.
His breathtaking old Hollywood glamour, floor-length veils and refined embellishments offer the perfect timeless yet contemporary wedding dress.
Pluming collars and exaggerated cuffs are classical Quinn motifs, and he injected further fun through silk blouson sleeves, exaggerated shoulder pads and voluminous skirts.
As the show came to a close, Pet Shop Boys’ upbeat Always On My Mind boomed through the sound system, as Quinn reminded us of the joy of his collection.
A-listers sitting front row dressed in Quinn included Olympic runner Keely Hodgkinson, daughter of Oasis star Anais Gallagher and sisters Lady Eliza and Lady Amelia Spencer.
