March 18--More than 30 years after its River North debut, Shaw's Crab House has produced two spinoff concepts, both in Lincoln Park: Naoki Sushi, named for longtime Lettuce Entertain You sushi chef Naoki Nakashima; and Oyster Bah, a casual seafooder with a heavy New England accent.
The two spun from Shaw's in completely different directions. Naoki offers a distinct upgrade over the Shaw's sushi and sashimi offerings, in well-appointed and quiet surroundings. Oyster Bah is more bros than Brahmin, perfect for summertime's shorts-and-sandals crowd. Both sit next to other Lettuce concepts; Naoki is in the Belden-Stratford hotel and apartment building, right next door to Intro and across the lobby from Mon Ami Gabi; Oyster Bah is on Halsted Street, next door to Summer House Santa Monica and Stella Barra pizzeria.
And whether you're at Oyster Bah or Naoki, the best seats are at the front counter.
Naoki Sushi
Naoki Nakashima oversees the sushi programs at both Shaw's Crab House locations and at Tokio Pub in Schaumburg, but at those places, customers gravitate mostly to the holy trinity of tuna, salmon and hamachi. At Naoki, the chef gets to let his creative side show.
Not that you'd necessarily know it by a quick glance at the menu. Though I'm sure it will change as the 2-month-old restaurant finds its audience, Naoki's opening menu is taking what I'd call a cautious approach, sticking to the tried-and-true for the most part. It's still a step up from Shaw's, clearly, but not yet a giant leap forward.
High-quality product and artistic presentation still count for something, however; credit the seafood-purveyor relationships of Shaw's for the former, and Nakashima's eye for the latter. Naoki's sashimi plates are particularly pretty, slices of flawless fish arranged in a starfish pattern and sparingly seasoned. Yes, three of the five options are salmon, tuna and hamachi, but the flavor and mouthfeel are beautiful.
There are a few fun dishes as well, including truffled chawan mushi topped with a layer of dashi; edamame "guacamole" dip with rice crisps; and tuna "tacos" with cabbage in deep-fried shells.
The interesting choices lie among the daily specials, and I recommend trying whatever is offered. Live scallops are a treat, offered in thick slices alongside a saucer of yuzu dashi dotted with shiso oil; off to the side is a bit of deep-fried himo (the scallop's ribbonlike border), adding textural interest. Uni nigiri, when available, is not to be missed, and Nakashima's whole-fish presentations (one night, needlefish belly in precise, uniform slices in front of the fish's head and deep-fried, edible spine) can be spectacular.
Among main plates, the teriyaki chicken is surprisingly good, the judiciously sauced breast meat accompanied by kale-wrapped chicken sausage nuggets; lobster, lacquered with togarashi butter over ginger-soy-ponzu sauce, is an indulgence with a sweet finish.
Creature comforts are outstanding. Carved out of a onetime private dining room (entrance to the restaurant is actually via Intro's kitchen), Naoki offers gentle lighting, warm neutral tones and comfortable seating at spacious tables. The rear of the dining room is slightly elevated, so even the seats way in back can get a sense of the sushi-bar action, though of course the best views are right up front, where chef Nakashima works, chats and even poses for pictures (wearing a straw cowboy hat, for unclear reasons) from time to time.
Oyster Bah
It would be a disservice to think of Oyster Bah as a "Shaw's Light" it's actually a more focused version of Shaw's, which opened as an East-Coast-inspired concept but broadened over the years. Oyster Bah, as the name suggests, is inspired by New England fish shacks, and so the interior effects a rough-hewn, seafaring look. Buoys and boat fenders hang from the ceiling, along with warehouse-type lights; there are fishing nets here, a lobster trap there, and en route to the restroom, you'll pass a wood-paneled wall with "Stop, Drop and Lobster Roll" in stenciled letters.
Ah, yes, the lobster roll. It's an eyebrow-raising $27.95, but executive chef and partner Pete Balodimas (who also oversees the Shaw's locations) says it contains all the meat of a 1 1/4-pound lobster, with just seasoned mayo and sprinkles of chive for companionship. Jammed into a split-top, toasted bun alongside some decent fries, this roll is big, delicious and authentic. King crab bites, another $27.95 indulgence, is an oversized, crabby version of shrimp cocktail; the crab legs are precisely cut into 1-inch lengths for easy extraction, presented on a bed of ice with cocktail sauce and a good, garlicky aioli.
Oysters are big here and treated with utmost respect. There are anywhere from eight to 12 varieties offered daily, leaning more toward East Coast oysters and priced at $3 apiece. They come with a forgettable cocktail sauce, but the stout ice -- a sort of frozen mignonette made with stout, malt vinegar and a hint of coffee -- is terrific. I want this with all my oysters from now on. Sit me at the counter in view of the shucker, cold drink in my hand, and I'll be happy.
Elsewhere, take the spreadable smoked-trout appetizer with grilled pumpernickel over the so-so tuna poke, and make room for stuffies, chopped quahog clams mixed with Spanish chorizo, celery and garlic and returned to the shell under a blanket of toasted panko.
Entrees include a one-sided red snapper (one fillet has been removed, often offered as the day's blackened fish) that gets a Thai treatment: deep fried and served with chili sauce and coconut-ginger rice. It's fine, but I much prefer the New Orleans barbecued shrimp, cooked in beer with blackening spices and served, shell-on, alongside jasmine rice. It's sloppy as hell, but the flavor will remind you of a good etouffee.
Best of the bunch is probably the shrimp and grits. Six hefty shrimp, Parmesan grits with just the right texture, and lobster-tomato gravy. I inhaled this dish.
One dessert is plenty if it's good enough, and if you like coconut, the coconut cake is good enough. Coconut cake, coconut frosting, sprinkled with coconut. Very moist and very sugary, and that's before the scoop of peppermint ice cream on the side.
There is a basement cocktail bar dubbed the Crab Cellar, which originally was to have a separate menu, but at least for now serves the same food in a brighter, '50s-looking lounge space. An upper-level space will debut in the summer, but either the owners haven't decided what, or they aren't talking.
pvettel@tribpub.com
Oyster Bah
1962 N. Halsted St.
773-248-3000
oysterbah.com
Tribune rating: One star
Open: Dinner daily; brunch Saturday and Sunday
Prices: Main plates $15.95-$27.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking
Naoki Sushi
2300 N. Lincoln Park West
773-868-0002
naoki-sushi.com
Tribune rating: One star
Open: Dinner Wednesday to Sunday
Prices: Sashimi plates $16-$24, main courses $16.95-$28.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking
Ratings key: Four stars outstanding; three stars excellent; two stars very good; one star good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
