With a cluster of so many incredible independent restaurants in Clifton Village, Bristol's branch of the Ivy Brasserie has plenty of competition for custom on its doorstep. Situated behind the honey-hued exterior of a grand Georgian building, formerly used as a bank, I have walked past it countless times without pausing to consider going in.
Stepping inside during the latest heatwave, we were met by a welcome wash of cool air and a friendly staff member at the welcome desk, whose floral jacket almost matched the fabric of the flamboyantly-upholstered chairs. The expansive space stretches from a bar and dining area at the front to a beautiful orangery at the back, lit by impressive chandeliers stretching from the ceiling high above.
The lavish design had me half hoping Lord Bridgerton would appear with a whisky in hand and invite me to the ball. Despite the swanky decor and the presence of a dress code on the website - no football shirts or sporty tracksuits - the atmosphere felt relaxed as we were shown to our corner table.
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By the time we arrived at 6.30pm on a weekday, there were already tables of people chatting and clinking glasses, from suited business types to casually-dressed tourists and families clearly celebrating special occasions. After flicking through the extensive drinks menu I decided to start off with a cocktail, ordering the sparkling peartini.
At £12.75 I had high expectations for the first sip, and the deliciously fresh mix of pear vodka, lemon, liqueurs and Champagne didn't disappoint. For the Ivy Special gin and tonic my partner ordered (£11.50), a smartly-dressed waiter brought over a mini cocktail shaker on a silver platter and mixed it in front of us, which was an unexpected flourish. You can't go wrong with an ice-cold G&T but the subtle hints cucumber and lime with lavender added a unique twist.
The Ivy describes its cuisine as 'modern British to café-style classics', and there was a good mix of dishes to choose from - if you're looking for somewhere to bring a large group with different tastes and dietary requirements to satisfy, this seems like a good option, although it is not somewhere I could afford to come regularly.
With that in mind I thought I'd make the most of it and order something I don't often indulge in, choosing the scallops to start (one of the more expensive options at £13.95) followed by one of the summer specials for my main, the veal Milanese (I didn't write down the price of this one but think it was around £18). I was grateful to see no calories on the menu given that it came breaded and fried with a butter sauce - I'd rather not know.
With no sides included, our waitress suggested a couple to share between us - we went for the parmesan and truffle chips (£5.50) and the baby gem salad with pine nuts (£4.95). It didn't take much cocktail-quaffing for my scallops to arrive, spectacularly presented with a truffle foam that looked like ocean spray.
The fat scallops were perfectly tender and fresh, paired with peppery watercress, a buttery potato rosti and a pea puree that gave a sweet tang. I wasn't convinced by the texture of the foam, as it added a bit too much moisture by the end, but the gratings of truffle gave extra richness and an earthy seasoning.
As our plates were cleared I couldn't help but have a nose at the facilities - the only other Ivy Brasserie I've been to before is the Oxford branch, and all I remember is how plush the toilets were with chaise lounges dotted around. So for the benefit of anyone else who judges a place on its toilets (just me?) - Clifton's are much smaller but equally pretty, with ornate gold-embossed wallpaper and a ceiling entirely covered with artificial roses.
It's the kind of restaurant with posh hand cream to match the soap, and I arrived back at the table wafting my fragrant hands in front of my nose. It wasn't long before I sniffed out another delicious scent, signalling the arrival of our mains.
With the high bar set by the starters, I was admittedly a bit disappointed with the presentation of the veal, although I suppose it's difficult to make a plate of beige-coloured food look enticing. The meat was again cooked well but aside from the salty crunch of capers sprinkled on top and the chunks of lemon in the butter dressing, it was more of a flavour fizzle than a flavour explosion.
My taste buds were reawakened, however, with the first bite of a truffle-coated chip. Richly-flavoured and impossibly fluffy, they have to be a contender for the best chips I've ever eaten - I could have quite happily devoured a plate full of those and the tasty salad as my main course.
If I hadn't been in such a fancy establishment, I would have picked up the paper wrapper and nibbled off the melted cheese stuck to it, like I do with a McDonald's cheeseburger. Much to my partner's relief, I resisted.
On the other side of the table, he reported that his whole lemon sole (£25.95) flaked off of the bone effortlessly, the subtly-flavoured fish made all the more delicious with a lemon mayonnaise to dunk it in. We finished off with a rum Baba for dessert (£8.95), which was a bit too boozy for me - the sauce seemed to be neat rum rather than an infused syrup as I was expecting, but the sharpness of the raspberries cut through it nicely.
Chips aside, there are restaurants in Clifton and more widely in Bristol that I would recommend more than the Ivy based purely on food, particularly given the price point. But the surroundings and the staff make this a place I would definitely return to for a special occasion, or for cocktails and nibbles.
Our waitress and other servers were incredibly attentive in checking on us throughout the meal, despite the large number of tables they have to cover - service here was on another level. They also offer a set menu at £17.95 for two courses or £22.95 or three, which seems a reasonable price to pay for a little taste of luxury.
The Ivy, 42-44 Caledonia Place, Clifton, Bristol
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