IF you've ever visited Pitlochry's fascinating Fish Ladder, or enjoyed a cultural trip to the town's Festival Theatre, you may have pondered the story of the distinctively grand red sandstone building overlooking the scene.
The stand-out castle was built for Lieutenant Colonel George Glas Sandeman, but became the headquarters of the North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board decades after his death, due to its proximity to Pitlochry Dam. After years of laying empty on the banks of the River Tummel, the Clark family purchased it in 2002. Finally in 2013, Fonab Castle opened as a glamorous five-star hotel, before being bought by London-based investment management firm Blantyre Capital Limited and Fairtree Alternative Real Estate, who also own Dunkeld House in Perthshire.
Location
Having walked around the beautiful area previously, I was desperate to see inside. Fonab Castle is well located for those visiting from more urban areas for a weekend in the countryside. You can take a train to Pitlochry, before taking a short taxi ride or 15-minute stroll up to the hotel (bearing in mind it is up a relatively steep hill with no pavement for sections of the walk).
Pitlochry has long been a popular destination for tourists, thanks to its central location and positioning on the A9. It remains quite the shortbread-tin version of Scotland, with its high street primarily populated with gift shops. Not everything is so tartan-ified though – for example, the exceptional Explore Chocolate shop on Atholl Road. This specialist chocolatier is worth visiting for the smell alone.
The town is also very popular for its hiking and cycling routes, with Faskally Forest, Ben Vrackie and Schiehallion all located nearby. If you were seeking luxury accommodation to lay down your head after a tiring day outdoors, Fonab is ideally placed.
First impressions
On the approach to Fonab, you could easily convince yourself that you'd become the lead character in some rom-com about an American travelling to the Highlands to visit their ancestral home. It's that very classic baronial castle style that tourists see in their mind when you say "Scotland", and it's beautiful. The views from the castle are stunning. Even on this rainy, grey evening, I love the atmospheric, hazy surroundings.
We're greeted at the main door by an extremely friendly, kilted (of course) member of staff, who gives us an overview of the hotel. We're given a dram of whisky as a welcome, and shown to our room. We're given the impressive Castle Suite – right at the top of the building, with a seven-foot bed and vaulted ceiling. Swanky.
It is incredible in theory. But it's the details that let it down in practice. Looking up at the ceiling, I can't help but wonder when someone last got up on a ladder and dusted it. That's a fair few cobwebs. I hope no spiders parachute down into the bed tonight. Shudder. There's also the matter of the décor. This place opened in 2013, and that's immediately apparently. The floral wallpaper, the cushions, the little finishing touches ... it's all just a bit dated. It needs a refresh to something more timeless.
Food and drink
Fonab Castle has two restaurants: 1982 on the Loch and Sandemans. Both of these restaurants suffers from the dated look on show in the bedroom, but the food more than makes up for it. The latter has a 3 AA Rosette award. Here you can enjoy a five or seven-course tasting menu from £70. The former, where we decide to eat, is a more relaxed vibe, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the beautiful Loch Faskally scenery. We enjoy delicious pumpkin and sage ravioli, butternut squash risotto, followed by lemon sole and chicken breast. Everything is cooked perfectly and presented beautifully. Even the little side dishes of bread, fries and tender stem broccoli with harissa are moreish. I'm absolutely stuffed by the end of the meal and I just need my bed. That's a sign of a good time.
We stop by the hotel bar to check it out before collapsing into the giant Castle Suite bed. Unfortunately, this too is an area in need of serious renovation. The large, open space complete with tartan carpet and matching sofas in purple and green has a bit of an airport lounge feel. The bright overhead lighting doesn't help. For a hotel of this level, in such a stunning building, you would expect some cosy, dimly lit nook to rest in as you enjoy a nightcap. We opt to grab a drink and head back to the bedroom instead.
At breakfast the following morning, the food is impressive and plentiful. The pastries are brought out on a serving stand, a small touch which I always appreciate. There's something retro or nostalgic about it. Enjoying the food while looking over the stunning scene outside is about as good a start to the day as you can get.
Service and facilities
Upon arrival, staff are warm and friendly – particularly the aforementioned kilted concierge. We're shown where everything is, and given a tour of our spacious bedroom. The following morning we don't have time to enjoy the separate Woodland Spa, but staff are kind enough to show us around and explain the facilities. It's a modern building with plenty of thermal elements to explore, and even an outdoor hot tub (if you can muster up the courage to go outside in your swimming costume in Scotland).
If there's a flaw here, it's the slightly cold service from the restaurant staff. Items on the menu are not explained, and there are few smiling faces to be found at dinner time. It's not the level of hospitality you would come to expect from a Scottish hotel of this calibre.
Overall
Fonab Castle is such a beautiful location that visitors should be willing to overlook the dated decor. With renovations expected soon, I expect the property will benefit from some modernisation. You can't fault the impressive location or incredible food. And at the end of the day, who doesn't want to stay in a castle? I'd give the whole experience a 7/10.
