Back in 2021, Rejina Pyo talked us through her favourite spots in London, the place she now calls home. She hails from Seoul, and as visits yearly.
Here she shares her guide on where to eat and what to buy in South Korea’s capital.
Where is your favourite destination and why?
Seoul, where I’m from, is a melting pot of past and present, of cultures interweaving and evolving. You can find everything, and it’s always changing. From Blue Bottle Coffee and Tartine Bakery-style Western spots to the most authentic, family-run restaurants, as well as cosmetics, shopping, ultra-luxurious spas, and the most traditional bathhouses.
When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?
Last August. We spend five or six weeks there with the whole family every year, my husband and our two kids, who are eight and three, so it’s mainly family time, with some work. The flights and jet-lag are challenging, but it’s totally worth it.
Where do you like to stay there?
I stay at my parents’ house, but there are lots of amazing places. I like finding homes to stay in via Stayfolio, especially if you prefer a house over a hotel. The Park Hyatt in Seoul is also a great spot to stay in — the views over the city are incredible.
What has been your favourite meal there?
My mother’s food is always amazing, but one time we were out and had only an hour and a half before we had to get back home, and the chef at Buto looked after us so well — preparing a six-course meal in that time, and it was incredible. We sat at the counter right in front of the open kitchen, talking to him while he was cooking, it made it even more special.
What are your top restaurants?
I only go to Korean or Asian restaurants when I’m there, so I’m not familiar with great Western food — although I hear there are some amazing places. But my top ones recently have been: Sate and Euljiro Boseok. Sate’s chefs have trained all over the world and have created a menu that features Korean produce with international inspiration which changes regularly. Euljiro Boseok has a crazy waiting list despite its super casual setting. The chef has an amazing palate and cooks in such an instinctive way.
What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?
It wouldn’t be enough! Seoul is such a vast city, and the traffic can be a challenge. But in my imagination, I’d start with a hike in the mountains to the north of Seoul near Samcheong-dong and have soup for breakfast, at Jaha Son Mandu. Then, I’d have coffee with a view at Coffee and Cigarettes, followed by a stroll through galleries and museums in the north. After that, I’d head to Hannam-dong for lunch, explore Seongsu where so much is popping up, and finish the day with drinks and a party near Itaewon.
What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?
If you’re into food, go to an authentic BBQ restaurant like Woo Lae Oak and try Korean-grown beef with tons of vegetable side dishes, followed by cold noodle soup. And visit the Korea Furniture Museum.
Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?
My husband Jordan Bourke and I love a dessert spot called ICHI. They serve a mugwort-flavoured affogato, soft ice cream, black sesame, mugwort, or green bean cakes. It’s a must-try. We keep going back every year.
Where do you like to let your hair down?
Nyapi is my friends’ club. It’s where I go out late, and is also one of the hottest spots in Seoul.
Who do you call to have a good time?
I call my oldest friends, who I’ve known for more than 20 years.
What are your favourite shops?
Olive Young, you can find absolutely anything there, especially if you love Korean cosmetics. It’s a chain store, similar to Boots, but so much more! It’s filled with an incredible variety of beauty and wellness products. I especially love the mineral sunscreens, as well as the Zeroid brand, which works wonders when your skin is acting up. I would also recommend visiting Non-Fiction for a beautiful in-store experience and lovely beauty products.
What’s the one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?
We bring everything home, from plates to fermented bean paste. Honestly, just pack an empty suitcase and fill it with things you know you’ll miss!
What’s your favourite beauty spot?
Banyan Tree Club & Spa and Grand Hyatt Seoul are hotel spas which are great for luxury treatments away from the busy energy of the city. And Sagehill is a spot I have saved for relaxation.
Your packing essential?
I pack light because I know I can always get clothes and cosmetics in Korea.
Your dress code when you’re there?
Layers, which are versatile and simple, such as our organic denim Maude jeans paired with a Caprice button-down shirt, layered with a tank top, and worn with some sandals.
A song that reminds you of the place?
Starry Night by Peggy Gou.
Have you ever had an emergency incident there?
No, it’s very safe, and I’m not just saying that because I’m Korean! I hear the same from friends of all nationalities. But the number to call if something happens is 119 (not 999 or 911).
Do you have a top wellness tip for the area?
Go to a traditional Korean bathhouse. They give you a uniform to wear while you relax on the warm floor, enjoy food, get a scrub massage and experience 10 different saunas. These are lined with materials prized for their therapeutic properties, including charcoal, salt and yellow clay, plus five plunge pools at different temperatures.
Which building would you like to live in there?
I love the traditional Korean houses in the Bukchon area. They’re surrounded by mountains and are truly beautiful. Once you learn about how these old houses are designed, you’ll understand how they can help you live life more mindfully.
