Despite an appearance only a mother could love, the maligned sea cucumber is said to be especially tasty when infused with flavours from other ocean foods, meats or spices.
So much so, Australia's stocks of the misnamed slug-like echinoderm are in high demand as a delicacy throughout Asia's south and east.
The only problem is they are also vital players in the health of the Great Barrier Reef.
Global consumption of the docile marine animal is worth an estimated $280 million a year and while great for exporters, researchers say overharvesting has imperilled populations along much of Queensland's coast.
Two species, the vulnerable white and the endangered black teatfish, are so highly sought they until recently accounted for more than 20 per cent of the state's entire sea cucumber catch.
Plucked by divers from the seabed or collected along reefs at low tide, the slow-moving bottom feeders are ripe for taking between Thursday and Fraser islands.
In practice, though, waters south of the reef are rarely fished.
The University of Queensland's Kenny Wolfe says with the Barrier Reef being home to 10 of the world's most threatened sea cucumber species, regulatory change is needed.
"Fishery data shows populations of some of the highest-valued species have been dwindling due to increasing and persistent global overharvest," he said.
"They're seen as a delicacy to some but sea cucumbers are the earthworms or vacuums of the sea, helping keep the sea floor clean and productive - they're critical for healthy ocean ecosystems."
Fellow investigator, University of Sydney professor Maria Byrne, says fishing for them on the Barrier Reef was for a long time, non-regulatory and therefore non-binding.
The system recommended regular assessment of stocks but these weren't done, so industry was allowed to operate without any real idea of the impact on sustainability.
Teatfish are listed on the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, which provides a strong basis to restrict harvest and export, Dr Wolfe says.
A "ray of hope" surfaced in December, with federal Environment Minister Sussan Ley determining black teatfish were in such decline, harvest would no longer be permitted.
"It's a great win for one of our 10 endangered or vulnerable sea cucumbers but further policy interventions are needed to ensure other sea cucumber populations don't start teetering toward extinction," Dr Wolfe said.
Going forward it will be essential to have a statutory regulated and enforced policy for regular independent stock assessments for all species harvested, Prof Byrne says.
"Only then would we be able to assess what is sustainable harvest and identify species-specific interventions, hopefully avoiding local extinction of these ecologically important sea cucumber species."
It would also help ensure the UNESCO "at-risk" status of the Barrier Reef is avoided and for authorities to meet sustainable fishery standards.
