Kerala – In northern Kerala, far from India’s big cities and tourist trails, an ancient ritual brings the gods down to earth – and takes aim at injustice. RFI went to the town of Payyanur to witness this Hindu ceremony carried out by Theyyam performers.
Every January, as the region of Kannur in the Indian state of Kerala hums with drums and colour, millions of people gather to witness the Theyyams – mystical performers who embody gods that once led rebellions against the powerful.
Their faces are painted with wild patterns, their costumes rise taller than trees and their message is one of resistance.
In the town of Payyanur, hundreds gathered near a village temple at the end of a road lined with coconut palms and painted houses. They had come to see the goddess Bhagavathy. She would appear not in the sky, but through the body of Manoharan, a revered Theyyam performer.
“When I enter a trance, a light suddenly fills me and I lose consciousness,” said Manoharan. “I have no memory of what happens when the goddess manifests in me.”
Manoharan belongs to the Vannan caste – the only caste allowed to carry out this ritual. The tradition is passed down through families. He was just seven when, he says, the gods first entered him.
As dawn broke, Manoharan was painted head to toe. His face was covered in blood-red designs. A 10-metre-high costume, attached to a wooden frame, waited nearby. When he stepped into it, the transformation was complete. Bhagavathy had arrived.
Locals rushed forward to share their troubles, wishes and blessings with the goddess. Towering above the crowd, Manoharan seemed to belong to another world.
Ritual as rebellion
They might look otherworldly, but the Theyyams are deeply rooted in Kerala’s history of rebellion.
“It’s a total art form that combines spirituality, dance, music and theatre,” said KK Gopalakrishnan, author of Theyyam, Indian Folk Ritual Theater. “The forms of this artistic treasure unfold according to countless local legends, with hundreds of different gods and ceremonies.”
But there’s more to it than mere spectacle.
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“Theyyams belong to the lower castes of Hinduism who revolted during the feudal era,” said local historian Kunjiraman Mash. “At that time, they were forbidden to educate themselves, enter temples or associate with higher castes, the Brahmins.”
The gods they channel were rebels too. Bhagavathy, who appears through Manoharan, was born into the upper castes but defied caste and gender norms. For that, she was banished from her village and ended her life in exile.
Another powerful figure is Muthappan, the most important god in the local pantheon. A temple to him stands along the Valapattanam River, where people offer him toddy – Kerala’s coconut beer – during Theyyam ceremonies.
Though born into a high-caste vegetarian family, Muthappan rejected privilege and began drinking alcohol and eating meat like the peasants who supported him. He led a rebellion to redistribute wealth and open temples to the lower castes and untouchables.
Marx meets the mystics
This blend of spirituality and resistance has long shaped the politics of the region.
“The Indian Communist Party was born here in northern Kerala, and the first meetings of revolutionaries secretly took place in Theyyam temples,” said Mash.
He believes Marxist ideals found fertile ground in a place where people were already telling stories of gods who fought the elite.
The Theyyams are more than a memory – they’re a living tradition.
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In Payyanur, one festival draws huge crowds every 13 years. In 2024, around 300,000 people were expected over four days. A dozen Theyyam performers, including the most famous, appeared as Bhagavathy.
The mood was festive, with music, lights and food stalls. On 50-metre-long tables, volunteers served curries and chutneys on banana leaves.
“This is a meal normally reserved for weddings. We eat it to pay tribute to Bhagavathy, who could not marry because she committed suicide,” said Bismaya, a 28-year-old doctor.
“As a woman, Bhagavathy’s journey inspires me,” said Manjula, 23, who was waiting in line to see the performance. “Coming from the upper castes, she gave up her privileges to oppose patriarchy, and her fight is still relevant today.”
Ancient ritual, uncertain future
No one knows exactly how many Theyyam performers still practise – likely a few thousand. But the tradition is under pressure.
“With Kerala’s urbanisation, it is increasingly becoming a visual and commercial spectacle whose spiritual and philosophical significance is being lost,” said Gopalakrishnan.
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He also said the message doesn’t travel easily. “Theyyams are also prevented from performing in most regions of India, where their anti-caste message is poorly received.”
Still, he remains hopeful. “We need to pass this tradition on to the rest of India and the world.”
This article has been adapted from the original version in French by Côme Bastin
