Rapha launched the first instalment of its Excess collection back in 2023. The intent was to use 100% surplus fabric, thus reducing waste and lessening the environmental impact of new garments. This initiative is part of a larger industry-wide effort to use more recycled materials, reduce emissions and generally make products more environmentally friendly.
In the case of the Excess collection, this repurposing effort also makes for rather unusual-looking clothing. The original Excess kit made a huge splash at the 2023 Giro d’Italia when Team EF Pro Cycling wore it, and Rapha has continued to expand the collection ever since.
Rapha’s newest Excess Gore-Tex jacket is similarly visually striking. It is available in three different colour options, all of which have asymmetrical contrasting panels, some with improbable colour combos.
Design and Construction
The Excess Pro Team Gore-Tex jacket uses a three-layer construction—this means that the waterproof Gore-Tex membrane is sandwiched between an inner and outer layer of material. In order to keep moisture moving through the membrane, the outer layer is treated with a DWR coating that helps water to bead up and roll off.
The jacket uses a two-way zipper that is also waterproof, which provides the ability to dump heat/moisture as needed. It does not have any additional pockets or vents.
Stretch panels are located around the shoulders, at the lower hem, and at the ends of the sleeves. These sections use a polyester/nylon/elastane mix that is slightly bunched up in a honeycomb pattern to allow for one direction of movement while keeping the Gore-Tex membrane intact.
One important thing of note: Due to newly enacted legislation in the State of California, clothing items made with per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), like this jacket, are no longer permitted to be sold. As a result, Rapha is not selling this garment in the U.S. and has plans to retool the design. The product page on Rapha’s U.S. website states: “Please note - This product is currently being reworked and is unavailable for purchase in the US. Any orders placed will be cancelled.”
PFAS, also commonly referred to as forever chemicals, can be found in many common products. The State of California is among the first places to ban this group of chemicals in clothing, but the European Union is also considering similar legislation. The use of these garments is not believed to be harmful (per current science), rather it is simply the fact that these chemicals exist that is the issue. If you already own a waterproof/breathable jacket, it likely contains PFAS, and the best course of action, environmentally speaking, is to keep using it for as long as possible.
Specifications
- Name: Rapha Excess Men's Pro Team GORE-TEX Rain Jacket
- Size range: XS-XXL
- Weight: 175 grams (size Small)
- Price: £275 / $340 US
- Colours: Multicolour (This seems to be what Rapha uses for all three colour variations, and while all fit this description, one is mostly green/yellow, one is shades of blue, and one is orange, purple and dark green for some reason)
On the road
Technically speaking, the most groundbreaking part of this jacket is the built-in stretch panels. These make the jacket significantly more comfortable than most hard shell rain jackets, despite the race-oriented cut. And it is a very race-oriented cut—Rapha’s Pro Team range is designed for and used by the professional teams the company sponsors, and thus the fit is made for professional-sized bodies. Those seeking a more forgiving fit are advised to size up.
I was able to squeeze my 182 cm/68 kg frame into a size small for this test, but if I were to purchase this garment I would probably opt for a medium to allow for additional layers underneath. The stretch panels integrated into the design are truly excellent and make the jacket more comfortable than every other hard shell I’ve worn.
I am curious to see how well these elastane panels hold up long term, as the texture provides a lot of surface area for wear to develop via friction. Assuming they do hold up OK, a jacket made entirely out of this stretch material would be pretty nifty.
One of the most common complaints I hear about waterproof gear from other cyclists is the lack of brightly coloured options available on the market. From what I’ve found, most manufacturers are actually aware of this. Every year one will offer a new jacket in a bright colour, and it won’t sell as well as the blacks and grays, so they discontinue that one. Either the market for visibility is saturated, or nobody is actually choosing them off the rack when they head out the door to ride, despite their stated intentions.
The Excess Gore-Tex jacket couldn’t blend in if it tried.
The contrasting panels make for sharp lines that jump out at the eye, and the colour choices similarly help make it stand out. In addition, there are reflective bits on the front, rear and arms to aid in low light visibility.
Throughout my testing in generally chilly, but both wet and dry conditions, I found the jacket’s performance to be excellent. Gore-Tex is the gold standard for waterproof breathables, and while the issues with PFAS are apparent, it’s also clear to all how well these compounds do when used for particular applications.
With that said, I think it’s worth mentioning that Gore-Tex and other similar products are only truly breathable when the air outside is dry. In rainy or humid conditions, moisture won’t pass through the membrane—it requires a humidity difference between inside and outside. Thus, the vapour-permeable barrier works optimally when it’s cold and dry outside. In the rain, the outer shell will keep water out, but it will keep your sweat in, too.
I was impressed by the Excess jacket’s packability. It doesn’t get quite as small as a Shakedry garment, but it bunches up small enough to comfortably fit in a jersey pocket. Knowing that it can be readily stowed makes me much more likely to grab a particular jacket as I'm heading out for a ride, and this one hits the mark.
Value and conclusion
This is a performance jacket, with a race fit, designed for harsh conditions. Its visibility is an asset, though the colour options might not be everyone’s cup of tea. I have worn many other rain jackets, and this is the most comfortable (thanks to the stretchy bits) hard shell I’ve used. It’s not as comfortable as a Castelli Gabba-style softshell, but then it serves a different purpose.
Price-wise, it sits fairly high up on the scale, Assos’ offerings notwithstanding. Gore-Tex shells are pricey across the board, however, and the performance is top notch. I have a feeling that Rapha’s use of reclaimed materials won’t move the needle for many, especially given the PFAS situation, however the look will be popular with some riders. I’m a fan!
