Sticky, sweet, textural, meaty and it just happens to be vegan, this bowl is gloriously glistening with eggplant that’s fried until it yields to silky strips, sponging up the sticky teriyaki sauce. Speaking of sponges, that’s exactly what tofu puffs are – and they get even juicier in the salad dressing overnight.
I’d better address the eggplant in the room: this is on the edge of what a “salad” can be according to my new definition (at least a few things in a bowl, well-dressed). If you’re looking at it and thinking “Isn’t this just cold noodles?” The answer is … yes! I hope this gives you permission to turn last night’s leftover noodles into salad by adding some fresh herbs or leafy bits and dressing it decisively to keep everything slippery.
Speaking of eggplant, remember it’s one of those vegetables that’s best overcooked rather than under. The structure should have entirely collapsed through the middle – the opposite of al dente.
Udon noodles are nifty because they’re slippery and chunky – a satisfying addition for an all-veg main. You’ll find fresh udon noodles in the chilled section at the shops, and the advantage of fresh noodles is they only require a couple of minutes to cook – marvellous for a midweeker. If you’re using dried udon, cook them as you would dried pasta – in well-salted, boiling water. These noodles benefit from a rinse if you’re not dressing them right away – that way the strands don’t stick to each other and turn out clumpy. Just drain as you would pasta and run under cold water from the tap until they’ve cooled.
You’ll get the best spring onion curls if you pop them into iced water, but slicing them chunky to fry with the rest of the mix is also an option.
This salad is delicious cold if you’re sweltering in the Australian heat, or served fresh out of the pan if you’re looking for a winter warmer in the northern hemisphere. It can also be made a day or so ahead and brought back to room temperature to serve – ideal for lunch al desko.
Sticky eggplant, tofu and noodle salad – recipe
Serves 4-6
2 eggplants, about 800g
2 tsp salt flakes
200g fresh udon noodles
Neutral oil for shallow-frying (I like rice bran or grapeseed)
200g tofu puffs, torn in half
For the sticky teriyaki sauce
½ cup (125ml) light soy sauce
½ cup (110g) brown sugar
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tsp finely grated ginger
1 tsp finely grated garlic
1 tsp sesame oil
To serve
2 spring onions (scallions), finely sliced on the diagonal and soaked in cold water
2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
Cut eggplant into 1cm slices lengthways, then into chunky chips about 5cm long; sprinkle with salt and set aside in a colander for 30 minutes.
While you wait for the eggplant to sweat, make the teriyaki sauce. Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes.
Cook the udon noodles according to packet instructions and toss with a couple of tablespoons of the warm sauce. Squeeze the eggplant through the colander and pat dry with paper towel.
Heat 1cm of neutral oil in a wok or heavy-based frying pan until shimmering then cook the eggplant in batches until golden (watch out – it might spit a little) for about six minutes, adding more oil if needed. Once all of the eggplant is cooked, use the residual oil in the pan to give the torn tofu puffs a new lease on life, tossing for a minute or two to turn them slightly more golden.
Transfer most of the frying oil out of the pan into a heatproof bowl, leaving a couple of tablespoons remaining. Crank the heat to medium and, when the oil is shimmering once more, toss the tofu puffs and cooked eggplant back into the pan along with the sauce, sizzling everything together for a minute or so to coat and become glossy.
When ready to serve, arrange the udon on a platter and tumble the eggplant and tofu puffs with the sauce over the noodles. For the final bedazzle, sprinkle with drained and spun spring onions curls and toasted sesame seeds.
• This is an edited extract from Salad for Days by Alice Zaslavsky, photography by Rochelle Eagle, published by Murdoch Books in Australia (A$45) and the UK (£20)
