Fashion designer Poonam Bhagat’s fondness for Chennai reflects in the colour palette of her new collection. She toys with cobalt blues, burnt oranges and sunflower yellows that resonate with the city’s sensibility. There are, however, the muted blushes and the pale-ash ivories too, “which has something for everyone”. “I’ve come to Chennai with an exhibition after three years and I am excited,” says Poonam, whose label Taika is showcasing 70 pieces.
The collection, including dresses, jackets, tunics, ponchos and more in linen, poplin, voile and a smattering of chanderi, is contemporary and aimed at women between 25 to 65 and beyond. The ensembles come with appliques, embroidery and digital print work. While the ‘Popcicle’ collection is easy-breezy and comes in bold colours, the range in cobalt-blue uses Japanese script for the design element. “They are optimistic words in Japanese representing faith, hope, good luck and peace,” says Poonam.
Known for its elegant yet edgy approach, Taika had always charted its own course ever since its launch in 1991, says Poonam. “There were only a handful of designer stores in India then and there was no internet or social media. We designers relied purely on our inspiration,” she says. Poonam’s creative process still follows her preoccupation with art. From the surrealist works of Joan Miro to Vincent van Gogh’s iconic ‘Starry Nights’ and Picasso’s serigraphs, her works are influenced by varied expressions of art.
Architecture is a source of ideas too. The Moor Collection has screen-printed lattice work superimposed with abstract blacks and red motifs evocative of the simplicity of the Bauhaus art and design movement that began in Germany in the early 20th century.
Designing for an opera
Poonam’s oeuvre is not confined to the ramp. In 2013, she designed the costumes for the entire ensemble of the French opera company, Opera Lafayette. “It is easy to design for models, but when you are designing clothes for a performance involving people of different sizes and characters, it is a very different experience,” she says. Poonam studied the entire libretto (text used in an opera) to understand the characters and design accordingly.
Set in Kashmir and Samarkand, the opera recounted the love story between Nourreddin, the King of Samarkand, and the Mughal princess Lalla-Roukh. The garments she designed were in vibrant colours embellished with embroidery. The show went on to be a success. “And it was worth the effort we took,” says Poonam. In 2016, in a first of its kind show, Taika showcased its ‘Twilight Gold’ collection on top of the Eiffel Tower. The range had jewel toned skirts appliqued in burnished gold tissue.
As far as a designer is concerned, it is not just the body type of the wearer that matters, her personality also counts, says Poonam. “The idea is that a person should feel comfortable in her own skin and the clothes should help her achieve that.”
Poonam will be interacting with customers at a ‘Meet the Designer’ session at Amethyst on August 11 from 11am to 7pm. The collection will be available for a week. (www.taikabypoonambhagat.net; @taikabypoonambhagat on Instagram)
