He vividly remembers the first dust cloud he was engulfed in. “The entire sky turned red. My throat started burning like hell. I couldn’t see because of the tears in my eyes. I was shocked, speechless, totally not understanding what just happened,” said Mohamad Madadi.
He was then just a child in his school playground but the choking smog clouds have only worsened in Ahvaz, in Iran’s western province of Khuzestan, his home –and one of the world’s most polluted cities.
Now 28, the self-taught photographer has made it his work to capture the eerie atmosphere of the heavily polluted city, as a symbol of Iran’s wider environmental crisis that is having an effect on the nation’s health after years of systemic negligence.
Cars travel along a road through a thick haze in Ahvaz, consistently ranked as one of the world’s worst cities for air pollution
In 2011 Ahvaz was ranked by the World Health Organization as having the worst air quality of any city globally. It remains one of the world’s most polluted cities and its air has been proved to have increased deaths, and been linked to a rise in cardiovascular diseases.
The last decade has brought little change to a region that lies on the outer edges of what was once known as the Fertile Crescent. Trees that had hung heavy with dates and citrus since the days of Mesopotamia now crumble to ash under the slightest touch, due to a dust-borne fungus.
“It’s a poor city,” says Madadi, “One that has always faced issues as long as I can remember, but where people are always kind and welcoming.”
A street next to a market in Ahvaz. Each year, thousands of people seek medical treatment for respiratory conditions
The surrounding plains, where many of the world’s first cultivated crops were grown, are now barren, poisoned by oil refineries and other extractive industries that have accelerated the region’s ecological breakdown.
The growing prevalence of illness that pollution has inflicted on the people of Ahvaz has been examined by several research groups. One 10-year study confirmed growing levels of noxious fumes were behind a rise in cardiovascular hospital admissions, and Madadi has found himself drawn to documenting an increasingly desperate situation. Last year, he was a finalist in the Sony World Photography awards for a series on urban life under Ahvaz’s oppressive orange skies.
Swaddled in its sepia haze, when the smog descends, Madadi’s city is one in paralysis, streets deserted. “When these dust storms arrive everything goes into chaos. Even the most simple tasks become impossible. You can’t see a short distance in front of you, you can’t drive, you can’t function. I’ve seen cars collide with each other.”
Less than 100km from the Iraq border, in a province containing the third largest oilfield in the world and most of the country’s Sunni Muslim and Arab minorities, Ahvaz has a difficult relationship with the capital, Tehran, perceived as largely indifferent to the city’s struggles.
“Tehran looks at Ahvaz as an object,” says Madadi, “As something they can rely on for selling fuel and making money and that’s pretty much it. They take and take from us and they don’t give us anything in return.”
When he speaks of the future, Madadi’s lack of optimism is notable. “I don’t see myself living here for the rest of my life,” he says. “And if other places in the world: cities, countries, don’t look at us as a warning and learn from us, soon everything, everywhere will be a ruin like we are.”
Ahvaz is a victim of pollution from the vast petrochemical industry in Khuzestan province, as well as massive dust storms