Hotel Plaza Athénée is a lesson in OTT luxury and has a storied history of attracting heads of state, A-list celebrities, fashion royalty and le beau monde ever since it opened in 1913. It is also well-known for serving as the backdrop for some of TV’s most fashionable shows.
The grand dame of Paris hotels, it is situated on the prestigious tree-lined Avenue Montaigne, which is home to some of fashion’s most iconic brands. It is designated a “Palace” hotel, the French Government’s classification for hotels that are beyond five-star, with its exemplary and efficient service, and a concierge team capable of meeting just about any request.
Built in the distinctive Haussmann style, its highly attractive red awnings are believed to have their origins in a passionate romance between Marlene Dietrich and French screen legend Jean Gabin, played out at the hotel. The story goes that on one of their regular visits in the 1940s, Gabin asked the hotel to decorate the balcony of their suite with 100 red roses, but instead, staff used red geraniums as a substitute, much to her delight. To memorialise the gesture for Dietrich (who used to live on the same street before she passed away), the hotel decked out every balcony the same way.
Add to this the fact that Yves Saint Laurent often dined at the Le Relais Plaza restaurant, and that Bowie stayed at the hotel in Dietrich’s favourite suits (209 and 210), and you’re in excellent company stepping through its doors. It is also well-known for the fact that Christian Dior named collections after the hotel and used to photograph his models outside the entrance. He is said to have thought of it as his second home.
Recently, the hotel’s polished interiors have featured in Netflix’s recent hit Emily in Paris — though if your on-screen frame of reference is more firmly in the 2000s, you may recognise its flower-filled façade as having featured in Sex and the City.
Inside, the hotel underwent a major upgrade late last year, with 49 renovated rooms and suites on its fifth and sixth floors re-envisioned by French interior design firm, Moinard Bétaille. The same team responsible for remodelling the hotel’s lobby and its decadent gallery, La Cour Jardin and Le Relais Plaza restaurant. It’s a contemporary makeover, yet the interiors retain plenty of nods to the original 18th century style, with various Art Deco elements. Think polished white marble floors, exquisite glass chandeliers and luxurious flower arrangements.
Celebrity chef Jean Imbert — who rose to prominence on the French version of Masterchef — succeeds Alain Ducasse as head of the Plaza’s restaurants. Guests can choose between Michelin-starred Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée, where a grand royal table, crafted from antique Breccia marble takes centre stage; Le Relais Plaza, resplendent in its homage in Art Deco design to the renowned and luxurious transatlantic 1930’s French liner SS Nornande or (best for people-watching) a more casual affair at Le Galerie.
The food is pleasingly and daringly traditional, the menus full of French classics. Amid the grand Art Deco environs of the restaurant, once frequented by the aformentioned Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, guests are served dishes like ‘My grandmother’s terrine’, egg mayonnaise, and a divine whole chicken on a spit serve with baked potatoes. Afternoon tea is an extravagant affair and the breakfasts are a masterclass in elegance.
There is no pool, but the Dior spa has endless treatments and the gym has a resident personal trainer on hand. The facials are unrivalled and not to be missed.
All of the new suites feature a different look, with comfortable and chic furnishings, grand chandeliers, silk-covered armchairs and ornate metalwork. In room ipads, high-end snacks and embroidered Beltrami linens make it harder to leave your room. Though there are typical Parisian views to look upon from some of the rooms, from the incredibly attractive courtyard resplendent with climbing ivy, gorgeous shutters and those signature red awnings, to scenes of avenue Montaigne. In some rooms, including the Royal Suite, which is one of the largest in Paris, city landmarks like the Eiffel Tower can even be peeked from the windows.
If you can bear to leave, the Avenue Montaigne houses the major designer stores Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and the Dior flagship, as well as the theatres and cabarets of the ‘Golden Triangle’. While the Eiffel Tower, Tuileries Gardens and Louvre, and Musee D’orsay are all within easy walking distance.
The nearest metros are Alma-Marceau (line 9) and Franklin D. Roosevelt (lines 1 and 9). Though don’t expect to see anyone staying at this hotel descend into the annals of Paris’s subway system. Private cars are the only way to see the city for its well-heeled clientele.
I would highly recommend a visit to On Restaurant, the BBQ restaurant on Rue Saint-Roch, and enjoying a chocolat chaud in great style at Café de la Paix (or Angelina if you can face the queues).No trip to Paris is allowed without a mooch around the only just re-opened Notre Dame, Montmartre, Le Marais and Merci boutique and if you’re looking for a casual classic French bistro near Plaza Athénée, do visit Chez Andre. The seafood and profiteroles are to die for.
When you arrive back to your suite you are sure to be welcomed with open arms by the doting staff. This palace hotel remains the stuff of legend.