Jonathan Anderson's debut collection for the Spanish leather goods house Loewe is a thing to behold. From the redesign of the logo to the inclusion of Meccano pieces in accessories, it felt fresh and desirable, and tapped into that same magic which Phoebe Philo weaves at Celine – but for men (Anderson will show his first womenswear collection in September). Key pieces include jeans (a staple of next season) with deep contrast calico turn-ups, striped knits, blankets, scarves and a host of new bags in the softest leather Cult status is pretty much assured Photograph: PR
Rick Owens has been enjoying an ongoing 'moment' for the past few seasons, that success saw no signs of waning after his spring/summer 2015 collection. The show was inspired by the faun character in L'Après-midi d'un Faune, a Ballet Russes production. It was 'Primal yet elegant,' according to the show's notes. Owen's usual monochromatic palette included faded pastel versions of Léon Bakst's colours that were embroidered with drawings by Benoit, a long-term model for Owens. Rick Owens' fans will not be surprised at the success, but they may find a few more followers wanting to join the pack for SS15 Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho
What do you wear if money is no object and you're starring in your own holiday dream sequence? Answer: Hermès. This label comes into its own during the summer season, perhaps it's the affiliation of scarf prints that sees it translate so well to lightweight summer wear. The floral print shirts and abstract patterned trousers in tonal colours with pops of the house orange and styled with contrast silk bandanas were the standout looks. Everything had a relaxed air: skate shoes and sandals with every look underpinned the holiday mood Photograph: PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP
This turns the fashion-show formula on its head, well feet. Simons showed his collection to an assembled standing fashion crowd with no front-row hierarchy. The models stomped around the circuit, collecting a new member to their procession on each lap. The build up of scrap-book images on the sailor-bib collars coats and jackets went from one retro family photo to a collage of a peacock, Japanese art, old photos and a roller coaster. Under the red and green lights it may have been hard to see the exact colours of the clothes, but the light-up trainers worked to full effect Photograph: PR
Kim Jones, the Louis Vuitton menswear style director, took the audience on a trip to Rajasthan, the land of kings. That meant plenty of hot pink 'the navy blue of India' as the inimitable Diana Vreeland once said, appearing on zigzag shirting and in a vivid burst on a flight suit, and mirrored embroideries on denim. The silhouette was 70s but felt modern; suiting worn with fine-knit rollnecks and trousers that sat high on the waist. Bomber jackets were also key Photograph: PR
Ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev was the inspiration for Van Noten's collection, evident in the dance shoes, high-waisted jogging pants, deep-scoop vests and the flowing silk robe coats (some printed with a motif of dancers in motion) As always with Van Noten there was a strong masculinity to the fluid, sensual look of the clothes. Romanticised dancewear is a key trend for SS15, seen also at Bottega Veneta in Milan Photograph: PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP
Once an under-the-radar designer, Chitose Abe has earned well-deserved respect for her Sacai label. Layering was her message for next summer, with shapes taken from uniform staples and utilitywear, and reworked in sporty fabrics and as unexpected tailored pinstripe. A graphic camouflage print also featured. Chitose's husband Junichi Abe showed a strong collection for his label Kolor, with stripes being a key theme (and trend for next summer) Photograph: Kay-Paris Fernandes/Getty Images Europe
It's appropriate in a season where denim is the biggest trend that Watanabe, longtime champion of the fabric, took it to the next level, with a near denim-out of workwear, dropped-crotch jeans and denim-hued blues in patchwork jackets. A fitting celebration of Japanese culture and denim Photograph: Zacharie Scheurer/AP
Part of the louche bohemian feel that has permeated many of the Paris collections manifested itself in a pyjama pants and scarves micro trend. Valentino led the way with stylised deco-look floral prints that tumbled down silk trousers with silk scarves hung free from under jackets on one side only. Haider Ackermann showed pants that pooled around the models' feet (loose flowing scarves are not new territory to him) and Yohji Yamamoto matched his printed scarf and wide-fit cropped trousers Photograph: Richard Bord/Getty Images Europe
Hedi Slimane's teen rock oeuvre took on a hippy vibe for a summer of love. A wardrobe tick list for the festival goer and Kate Moss fan – crochet blanket ponchos, fringing, floaty scarves, embellished blazers and bombers. Not to mention heavily embroidered psychedelic patterned jackets worn bare chested with (still skinny) jeans and layered up necklaces Photograph: Francois Durand/Getty Images Europe
