The most anticipated menswear show of fall 2019, Celine, by Hedi Slimane, closed Paris’ menswear fashion week last Sunday.
The French designer had previously previewed some of his menswear creations in Paris last September, as part of his Celine womenswear debut.
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This time round, Slimane, the “enfant terrible” of Paris fashion, unveiled his first full stand-alone menswear collection for the French house Celine and, in fact, the first menswear collection in the history of the French house.
Last year, Slimane’s Celine debut prompted a lot of heated discussion.
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Today, the shadow of the brand’s former designer Phoebe Philo is slowly disappearing and Slimane’s vision is front and centre.
Celine’s show invitation was a 30-page canvas hardcover book, comprising seven folded and removable double-sided posters with his photography and art-making sidelines.
The show took place in an immense black rectangle, with a large window offering guests a breathtaking view of the Champs Elysees, the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.
Sitting in the front row, there were no Hollywood superstars to be seen. There was no press release available for journalists. The entourage of Slimane was composed of up-and-coming musicians and underground artists.
In a collection, called “A London Diary: Polaroids of the British Youth”, the French superstar designer paid homage to British youth and, more precisely, the subcultures of the British post-war life with the Mods to Rudeboys, Teddy boys and Punks.
Canada’s most promising post-punk group, Crack Cloud, created the show’s original soundtrack titled “Philosopher's Calling”, which was beautifully synchronised with a massive sphere made of neon lights moving up and down the runway.
The first silhouette to appear on the runway featured a black double breasted suit, white shirt, black skinny tie, sunglasses and combat boots.
In this fall collection, Slimane revealed suits that were well-cut, without being too trim. The suits were well-proportioned, giving room at the waist and the legs, while the trousers were high-waisted and cut at mid-calf length, with long cuffs.
Quite rare as a tailoring method in ready-to-wear, the trousers had double inward-facing pleats, also known as French pleats. Skinny belts elegantly held up the trousers, while to complete the look, a tiny tie bar held a skinny tie.
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For Slimane, the suit is not about corporate uniformity. It’s a reinterpretation of the suit with a rebellious attitude. The models kept stoic faces and wore dark sunglasses, keeping their hands in their pockets as they walked.
His massive collection of 66 looks showcased menswear’s most iconic coats: a classic perfecto leather jacket, trench coat, elegant camel coat, double-breasted navy coat, leather biker jacket, raglan overcoat on herringbone, varsity jacket, green olive military parka, duffel coat, warm shearling coat – even an oversized fur coat at the end.
Slimane delivered a huge collection of coats to please everyone. On those creations, he adapted his signature androgynous rock ‘n’ roll swerve – animal prints, studded leathers, black-and-white creepers and skinny leather trousers.
The most surprising element of his collection was a simple pair of blue jeans in a relaxed fit with deep cuffs.
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During the runway finale, a key figure in the “No Wave” movement, James Chance, performed a saxophone solo combination of improvisational jazz and post punk from the New York music scene of the late 1970s.
With the launch of a haute couture collections, fragrances and menswear collections, Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, is hoping for revenues of at least €2 billion (US$2.2 billion) to €3 billion – perhaps more – within five years.
This menswear collection launch was the first step to becoming a global luxury brand.
According to business analysts, Celine’s menswear will outperform womenswear through to 2022.
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While the hip-hop culture has taken over the fashion world with a heavy streetwear influence, Slimane is swimming against the current with his slim-cut tailored suits, Chelsea boots, skinny ties and a rebellious attitude.
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He is making Celine stand out by creating something edgy and authentic, while remaining commercially attractive to a large audience.
While this move is certainly not groundbreaking, it is cool and confident. Whether it’s Dior Homme, Saint Laurent or now Celine, Slimane is doing what he has always done best – creating Hedi Slimane-esque clothes.
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