Overalls have lived many lives in fashion. They were born at Levi's in the mid-1890s as protective gear for factory workers. In the ensuing decades, overalls were embraced everywhere, from the 1970s skateboarding scene to the 1990s hip-hop style. Overalls still have some associations with light gardening or heavy-duty farming gear; they've also been lumped in with the breezy, Nancy Meyers-approved set dressings of a coastal New England summer.
Now it's 2024, and overalls seem to have reached their most straightforward form: a one-and-done summer outfit that isn't tied to a single aesthetic. They're less of a runway denim trend, like ultra-baggy jeans or denim-on-denim sets, but more of an underrated stalwart that's getting their due (once again)—appearing in celebrities' and fashion editors' wardrobes en masse.
The appeal is the same as ever: a full-coverage, functional jumpsuit that can be styled up or down to the wearer's content. Katie Holmes and Olivia Wilde have turned to overalls this spring when they've wanted to keep a low profile, with velvet Mary Janes and a chore coat (for Holmes) and a white tank and peep-toe sandals (for Wilde). What did Sofia Richie Grainge wear when she felt ready to debut her maternity style? Correct: a pair of military green overalls.
If A-listers want overalls' current style era to be laid-back, fashion proper wants them to have a glow-up. At fashion week, I clocked one Miu Miu guest whose take on double denim incorporated designer overalls, a jean jacket, a crisp white shirt, and a boxy leather bag. I've also seen women around New York City, Copenhagen, and Paris casting aside overalls' utility history to pair them with glittery Alaïa flats and frilly Peter Pan blouses. Overalls can still be easygoing—but there's permission to take them over the top.
Or to the kaleidoscopic festival circuit. According to a recent Google study, overalls were the most-searched clothing item in relation to Coachella outfits.
In terms of their tags, most still come from denim behemoths like Levi's (the founding designer) and workwear labels including Carhartt and Dickie's. Then there are the next-gen purveyors like Hey Gang. A favorite of Marie Claire editor-in-chief Nikki Ogunnaike, the brand makes unisex overalls and chore jackets in upbeat colors.
In April, I traveled to Paris with Nike for a chance to see its 2024 Summer Olympic kits and, unbeknownst to me, another moment where overalls would make fashion history. In a showroom filled with tiny track briefs and basketball jerseys, I was surprised to see a version of a Katie Holmes outfit staring back at me from one of the mannequins. It turns out that Nike decided to dress Team USA's skateboarders in overalls for the sport's second-ever Olympic games. It's both a nod to skate culture's impact on street style and a purely functional choice. When you're dressing to flip through the air, you want a garment that isn't going to fall or fold upward.
It's too early to call this latest overall sighting the sign of a trend within the trend. (If "skater girl summer" does in fact take off, remember you read it here first.) It is another case for overalls' endless evolution. Through it all, they're a piece you don't have to overthink this summer no matter how hard you're working—or if you're working at all.
