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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Our daily bread can be a dietary disaster

Sourdough bread loaves in a baking tray
Sourdough or sourfaux? It can be hard to tell the difference, says Chris Young. Photograph: Getty

In his article on ultra-processed foods, Giles Yeo writes: “Ultimately, bread is made from flour, salt, water and yeast” (Why the double standards on ultra-processed foods? Because some have better PR than others, 6 March). That’s like saying coal and diamonds are both just carbon, or vodka and whisky are both just alcohol. By doing so, Yeo forgets (or overlooks) the transformative processes that result in very different things. Lactic acid bacterial fermentation, fundamental to the process of making genuine sourdough bread, leads to changes in flavour and, as a growing body of evidence suggests, it might have health and nutritional benefits.

Meanwhile, Chorleywood bread process loaves aren’t “just” three or four natural ingredients. This industrial system all but eliminates fermentation (like much of the sourfaux on the market, there is no lactic acid bacterial involvement at all), and uses a cocktail of additives. Concern is mounting about the possible negative effects of this on the human gut and our microbiomes. That’s before any discussion of the potential effect of consuming additives and industrially modified ingredients. We suggest sticking to real bread.
Chris Young
Real Bread Campaign coordinator

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