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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Saskia Kemsley

Oriflame's AI-powered fragrances review: can machine learning mimic a true fragrance expert?

Scent is by far the most powerful of all the senses, with a singular smell capable of transporting us across time and space into memories we didn’t know existed. It’s one of the reasons true bookworms can’t get behind the advent of e-readers, for there’s nothing quite like the musty yet sweet and grounding aroma of ageing pages while reading your favourite story.

Some can’t get enough of the smell of grass after it’s been raining, while others prefer the zesty aromas produced by fresh blooms in the springtime. Not only do olfactory preferences differ greatly between individuals, but certain perfumes react differently depending on your skin.

Choosing a signature scent is a highly personal experience. Not only do olfactory preferences differ greatly between individuals, but certain perfumes react differently depending on your skin.

Where bergamot top notes may release an intoxicating aroma when applied to one person’s inner wrist, it might provoke a reaction akin to ingesting soapy coriander for another.

So, what happens when we remove that highly individualised, expert-led scent-picking process from the line of production?

AI has been employed by high-end laboratories behind the scenes to craft fragrances with mass appeal — a paradoxical notion given our views on choosing an eau de toilette. Perhaps that’s where Prada got the name from. Its latest scent in the Paradoxe series, Prada Paradoxe Virtual Flower, was created with the power of AI to capture the ‘true scent’ of jasmine.

Machine learning works to capture the essence of natural aromas by analysing vast records of scent data, raw materials and market-leading blends in less time than it takes you to spritz your cult-favourite perfume. Some perfumers are boosting the analytical power of AI by having consumers take EEGs while trialling scent combinations. AI can also analyse consumer habits to identify potential gaps in the fragrance market.

Oriflame’s trio of AI-formulated fragrances are a delight to the senses. “Across Space” smells exactly like the original Glossier You formula, with pink pepper top notes, ylang ylang and an ambery metallic musk base. “Time Loop” is sweet but grounded — its distinct salty vanilla top note is complemented by jasmine and lavender. “Earth Wonder” is vibrant, fruity and reminiscent of a tropical summer holiday.

Just as an aura cannot be captured by the naked eye, perhaps only AI can leverage the true power of scent.

Scope Across Space Eau de Toilette

For all those fans of the original Glossier You formula who have been begging the cult beauty brand to re-release it instead of producing two new scents, Across Space is an immediate add-to-basket - we’ve never come across a dupe quite like it, and at an incredible price too.

It’s imbued with that beloved, ever-popular pink pepper top note blended with lily of the valley and a hint of ginger. Its heart is orris (a rare, fragrant ingredient that comes from the root of the bearded iris), rose and ylang-yang with a base of metallic musk and amber.

Buy now £32.00, Oriflame

Scope Time Loop Eau de Toilette

Described as taking us on a ‘journey through time’, this warming scent is perfectly sweet without being overwhelming, making it the perfect transitional fragrance.

It comprises joyful top notes of smooth vanilla, a salty sea breeze with pear and mandarin, a heart of jasmine, lavender and violet leaves, and is tempered by a base of musk, evernyl and more vanilla to complete the loop.

We adore the wholesome blend of saccharine, herbaceous and natural aromas mixed with balancing oaky, woody and mossy undertones. It certainly feels like taking an early morning dip in the ocean before meandering through the forest back home.

Buy now £32.00, Oriflame

Scope Earth Wonder Eau de Toilette

Despite its earthy appearance and name, this scent within Oriflame’s AI-powered fragrance range is a surprisingly sweet addition. Its saccharine notes are, however, largely citrussy – comprising of pear, bergamot and mandarin with a distinct magnolia after-scent before atomising into a sandalwood-infused wonder.

Buy now £32.00, Oriflame

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