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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
World
Justin McCurry in Tokyo

On a roll: bullet train food carts become Japan’s latest must-have

The food trolley and passengers in the interior of a shinkansen bullet train in Japan.
The food trolley and passengers in the interior of a shinkansen bullet train in Japan. The carts have become a popular after being discontinued on a Tokyo-Osaka route. Photograph: Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert/Alamy

They are simple, practical items that have rolled seamlessly along bullet train aisles for decades, carrying snacks to millions of hungry travellers as they are whisked along at speeds of around 300km/h (186mph).

But now the humble food and beverage trolleys of one of Japan’s shinkansen routes have become an unlikely must-have item in canteens and household kitchens across the country.

The carts – which can hold up to 50kg of food and drink – were put up for sale in January after Central Japan Railway Company discontinued food and drink sales on the popular Tokyo to Osaka shinkansen route, citing staff shortages and lack of demand from passengers who buy their supply of snacks for the 500km journey from railway station outlets before boarding.

The firm had planned to discard the items but was persuaded to put them up for sale by train lovers who wanted to secure a slice of Japanese railway history – for ¥100,000 (£528) per trolley.

When online bids to secure one of the 50 carts available ended earlier this month, the firm said it had received 1,942 bids for a total of 2,432 carts.

Enthusiasts, who were limited to a maximum of two bids each, reportedly include school cafeterias and individuals hoping that the contraptions will one day grace their kitchen.

A quiet shinkansen bullet train platform at JR Tokyo Station
Demand for the bullet train food trolley fell after passengers opted to buy food from railway station outlets instead. Photograph: Aflo/REX/Shutterstock

The 110cm high, 33cm wide trolleys became a mainstay of high-speed rail travel shortly after the shinkansen, which marks its 60th anniversary this year, went into service ahead of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics.

They feature rear brakes that automatically locked when catering staff removed their hands from the steering lever, while the front wheel could be manoeuvred to overcome uneven surfaces between train carriages, according to the Asahi Shimbun.

The carts carried more than 60 items, including soft and alcoholic drinks, bento boxes, and chocolate and snacks. But many travellers on the route will remember them for their “too hard” ice-cream – refrigerated using dry ice so it could be eaten slowly on long journeys – with some resting it on top of a sealed hot coffee to soften it.

Lovers of bullet train coffee and ice-cream can now buy the items from vending machines installed on platforms.

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