Traditional roast pork by a roaring log fire. Sussex sparkling wine on a sun deck by the pool. A romantic couples massage before rolling into an antique four-poster bed.
This is just some of what you can expect during a stay at Ockenden Manor, a hotel and spa set in nine acres of gardens right in the heart of the charming South Downs village of Cuckfield.
The popular Sussex hotel is set across an Elizabethan, 16th-century manor house and a more contemporary spa house, and the vibe is traditional but laid-back: think exposed beams, roll-top baths and fine dining in a formal English restaurant with French doors out onto a garden.
From local wines in the wood-panelled bar to the saltwater flotation tank in the award-winning spa, here’s what to expect.
Where?
In the quaint village of Cuckfield near Haywards Heath, just a 45-minute train ride from London. It’s right in the heart of the South Downs National Park, with various vineyards and popular gardens from Wakehurst Place (Sussex’s Kew Gardens) to Sheffield Park right on the doorstep.
Sister hotels Bailiffscourt and The Spread Eagle – all art of the Historic Sussex Hotels group – are both less than a 30-minute drive away.
Style
Don’t come for plush modern menus or cool contemporary furnishings. Do come for history, fine dining and olde English charm.
If you’ve been to sister hotel Bailiffscourt, it’s a similar set-up: an old medieval manor house with a delightfully modern spa. Most of the action takes place in the main, Elizabethan-era building, which dates back to 1520 and features exposed beams, panelled walls and four-poster beds, but there’s a separate spa house built in the estate’s original walled garden, with rooms upstairs and a more contemporary, brutalist feel. Think floor-to-ceiling glass walls, modern spa suites and everything from a swim-through indoor-outdoor pool to an Isopod flotation tank. It’s a short walk or drive between the two buildings.
Which room?
Each of Ockenden’s 28 rooms and suites is individually decorated, with names (Linus, Amelia...) inspired by the Swedish owner’s children and grandchildren.
Choose from the more traditional rooms in the main hoouse, with Tudor oak panelling, four-poster beds and roll-top baths; or one of six modern spa suites in the separate spa building. These are more modern and lack the charm of those in the main house, but they’re more spacious, with giant two-person baths in open-plan bathrooms (don’t worry, you can close the shutters if you’re after some privacy) and doors out onto a private sun terrace, so you can enjoy an alfresco coffee in the morning and move easily between rooms – perfect for families or groups of friends. The other upside is you don’t have to trot through the grounds in your robes.
Food & drink
Home-smoked loche duart salmon. Fillet of red mullet with saffro potatoes and caramelised fennel. Apple and rhubarb mess with ginger ice cream and meringue.
Food at Ockenden is locally-sourced and wonderfully traditional, with dinner served in the main restaurant and drinks in a wood-panelled bar next door. Don’t expect the characterful quirkiness of The Pig; instead, you’ll get a daily-changing menu of mostly Sussex ingredients from head chef Stephen Crane, whether that’s the poached hens egg in your leek and potato soup or the fillet of pork, served with black pudding and cauliflower cheese puree. Order the honey roast duck breast for starter and the doubled-baked Sussex cheddar souffle for main. Desserts include a warm treacle tart, a dark chocolate pavé and baked Alaska and the wine list features more than 50 local wines from nearby vineyards.
Breakfast is a formal, sit-down affair back in the main, regal-style restaurant. Choose the Manor Grill if you like a full English (veggie and vegan options are available), or the home smoked salmon or porridge if you prefer something lighter. Cereals, pastries and fruit are available, buffet-style, at a table in the corner.
There’s also traditional afternoon tea option from 3.30 to 5.30pm – perfect if you’re just stopping by for a spa day – and a separate Sunday lunch menu for roast-lovers.
Facilities
There’s a garden, croquet lawn and eight acres of elegant grounds overlooking Cuckfield Park. But the main feature of a stay at Ockenden is its spa, a sleek, glass, contemporary building built inside the estate’s 19th-century walled garden, featuring everything from indoor and outdoor jacuzzis, a swim-through indoor-outdoor pool, steam room, sauna, a walk-through rainforest showers and a lounge area. Contrary to the hotel’s medieval feel, there’s even an Isopod flotation tank where you can relax the muscles by floating in saltwater.
Treatments are sponsored by Elemental Herbology and wide-ranging, from more traditional couples massages and facials to exfoliating body wraps and scrubs, age support eye lifts and Thai Qi flow massages. The signature massage is a 60-minute full-body treatment combining Thai and Swedish techniques and costs £123.
Day guests are permitted – see the website for special seasonal retreats and spa deals, including a popular full moon package. There are family swim times for guests with kids.
What to Instagram
A glass of sparkling Sussex wine on the spa’s sun terrace or in the rabbit-strewn garden of the main, ivy-clad hotel.
Best for?
Spa lovers looking for a traditional weekend in the Sussex countryside. Special occasions are popular here, and it’s family-friendly (perhaps too much so if you’re looking for some peace and quiet in the pool). Check the website for spa day offers.
How to get there
Jump on a train at Clapham Junction and you’ll be at Haywards Heath in just 45 minutes. It’s a 10-minute taxi at the other end. You can drive there from London in an hour.
When should I go?
Whenever you can get a room. The outdoor pool comes into its own in the warmer months but the fact that there’s such an extensive spa inside makes Ockenden the perfect spot for a cosy autumn or winter break. It’s light-filled and glorious even on a rainy day. Plus you can make the most of those log fires.
