Looking at my scuffed walking boots, the tread worn by the last time they touched Welsh soil back when I was 17, as well as the swiftly thinning lining of my rucksack, I realised it was time for some new walking kit.
This reflection had come when thinking about a fresh trip to Wales, including some hiking around Eryri (also known as Snowdonia). The last time I hiked was during my Duke of Edinburgh expeditions when I was a teenager, lugging my tent, copious amounts of Kendal Mint Cake and several tins of spaghetti hoops (a severe mistake, it turned out, due to the added weight) around with my mates.
I’ve been trying to get fitter over the last 18 months and this seemed like a good opportunity to add to my weekly swimming and football sessions, as well as a chance to get away with my partner Anna, who loves a hike – and does not share my distrust of heights.
I’ve got nothing against tents – in fact, I appreciate a night under the stars – but this time I was set on a slightly more comfortable setting as a base. Enter The Quay Hotel and Spa, a four-star stay on the waterfront of Conwy Estuary, which has added a £1m spa to help relax those weary legs.
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Travelling on the train from London – freshly kitted out with a new rucksack and waterproof jacket, although I braved the old walking boots – the last leg of the journey to Conwy takes in stunning views of the north Wales coast, setting the scene for the idyllic views from the floor-to-ceiling windows in our hotel room. Taking a glass of wine out onto the balcony and soaking up the sights and sounds of the Conwy Estuary and Conwy Castle, which sits imposingly across the water, was one of the many small delights that made up our stay.
The Quay’s Cove Bar offered a relaxing atmosphere with its waterside terrace showcasing a glorious sunset on a clear evening, and the Ebb & Flow restaurant provided an excellent meal – I am partial to a steak but the seafood is the star, with plates boasting locally sourced ingredients. The dessert, a white chocolate panna cotta, I could have eaten three times over.
So what of the walking? We took a 30-minute taxi for about £30 to the car park of the Ogwen Cottage and Ranger Base (although you can easily drive or take the regular bus service). Loaded up with tea, we then took a gentle walk around the crystal-clear waters of Llyn Idwal in the glacial valley of Cwm Idwal, which was Wales’s first National Nature Reserve. Sunshine and the picturesque views of the lake reminded me why I love hiking.
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In the afternoon, we tried a steep climb up to the peaks around the lake to stretch our legs a little more, but that was when the weather turned. The clouds quickly came in and rain followed – Wales was clearly offering us the full spectrum of its conditions. The way down was more arduous, with some slippery rocks and a bit of a wobble about the height at one point slowing our progress. But there is no doubting just how beautiful the area is – Anna was very much enjoying snapping some pictures of both the rock formations and my appropriately concentrating face. Those who hadn’t waited 18 years to slip on their walking boots in earnest (and slightly regretting their lack of tread...) would have no such issues and I would recommend anyone to make the trip. The lake alone, which required a gentle path to get to, is worth the time on its own.
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A little sodden, back at Ogwen Cottage we ordered a snack and a tea from the window hatch that is open every day and dripped onto the bus to make our way back; the spa urging my return with its siren’s call.
It did not disappoint. We enjoyed thermal pools, an infrared sauna (believed to aid muscle fatigue) and a traditional sauna and steam room. The footbaths were a welcome addition after hours of walking. After a long sleep, as relaxed as I had been in months, the next day followed with a full-body massage treatment. Having not had one before, staff made me feel at ease – and the tiredness in my legs and shoulders melted away.
The whole long weekend experience was in equal measure relaxing and invigorating, from the views across the Conwy Estuary to the wonderful food and welcoming atmosphere in the hotel, bar and spa. Having stayed during the off-season, things were a little quiet – but I would have no hesitation to go back in summer.
So has this been a launchpad for some more hiking? Thankfully yes – and I did get those new boots.
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