Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nick Clark

Nicholas Cullinan's guide to London: Korean fried chicken, karaoke and The River Café

Home is...

Bloomsbury with my husband Mattias. We have friends in the area like Tracey Emin, Erdem Moralıoğlu and Philip Joseph, which is lovely. We moved there this summer, and right around the corner from the halls of residence where I lived when I first moved to London 25 years ago to study — so I’ve come full circle!

Where do you stay in London?

I haven’t stayed in many hotels in London, but I did stay at The Londoner hotel in June 2023, around the reopening of the National Portrait Gallery, where I was director until this year. I was there all hours of the day, and that made it a lot more civilised — especially their pool and the views across the London skyline.

Where was your first flat?

In Borough with university friends in 2001 — it began my love affair with south London.

What was your first job?

Boots Opticians on Kensington High Street every Saturday and Sunday while I studied at the Courtauld (and seven days a week during holidays). It paid for my degrees and was one of several part-time jobs while I studied, working front of house at the National Portrait Gallery, which was a great way to start.

Where would you recommend for a first date?

The British Museum of course; where else can you can go around the world on your first date?

The British Museum, where Oscar Wilde used the Round Reading Room (PA Archive)

Which shops do you rely on?

Lina Stores on Brewer Street for ravioli (and apparently negronis downstairs, although I have yet to try this), Kipper & Chalk and Dunhill for tailoring, Jack Corbett for floral arrangements and garden design, and the beautiful Cornelissen shop for artists supplies.

Best meal you’ve had?

The River Café is always very special but a particularly memorable meal is one I had there with friends this March after being awarded the OBE at Windsor Castle (and just after I got the phone call from George Osborne to say I’d got the British Museum job). It was a big day.

Jihwaja has excellent Korean chicken and sound-proofed karaoke booths, so no one can hear me scream

What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?

Encourage everyone to visit our amazing museums, which are unique in the world in being free for everyone. I’d give people free tickets to the incredible array of exhibitions while I was at it.

Most iconic Londoner?

Oscar Wilde has to be up there; he used the Round Reading Room of the British Museum, which we just reopened to the public this summer.

Best thing a cabbie has said to you?

I think any conversation with a London cabbie is pretty unique — you don’t get that anywhere else in the world (or the Knowledge).

Where do you let your hair down?

Me and my friends like karaoke at Jihwaja In Vauxhall. They have excellent Korean fried chicken and the booths are sound-proofed, so no one can hear me scream.

Who do you call when you want to have fun?

Courtney Love for the best music and conversation; Louisa Buck is a walking encyclopaedia for the art world; Edward Enninful for a kindred spirit; and Sophie Goodwin from Cabana magazine knows her onions when it comes to parties.

Courtney Love (Dave Benett)

What are you up to at the moment for work?

Choosing an architect to design our new welcome pavilion at the British Museum; watch this space!

Biggest extravagance?

I don’t know I would call them an extravagance so much as a household essential, but I have a lot of books.

What’s your London secret?

Small, jewel-like museums such as Denis Severs’ House and 2 Willow Road, which was Erno Goldfinger’s home.

Last thing you googled?

‘How quickly does hair grow?’ (I just had my hair cut shorter than planned).

Favourite grooming spot?

Not where I got that haircut. Should’ve gone to Truefitt & Hill.

What do you collect?

An art world hazard: many canvas tote bags.

What’s your favourite work of art in London?

Beyond the British Museum, Baby Things, Tracey Emin’s bronze mitten at the Foundling Museum and Joshua Reynolds’s Portrait of Mai at the National Portrait Gallery. I spearheaded its acquisition last year — it’s wonderful to see it in a public collection.

Who is your hero?

Miuccia Prada gave me the best motivation I’ve ever heard and one that influences me a lot: ‘I want to make intelligent things attractive.’

Nicholas Cullinan is director of the British Museum.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.