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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

New Haven: Cult pizzeria Gracey's to make London debut with Terry's Cafe pop-up

One of the UK’s most exciting pizzerias is to pop-up at Terry’s Cafe in Borough next month, arriving in London for the first time. 

Gracey’s, which specialises in New Haven-style pies, will take up residency at Terry’s on June 13, marking the first time the traditional London cafe will serve pizza in its 40-year history.

New Haven is a type of thin Neapolitan-inspired pie that was first made by Italian immigrants in Connecticut, US, in around 1925. It’s known for its chewy, crispy and charred crust, the fact mozzarella is considered a topping rather than a necessity, and the chaotic style with which it is sliced. 

And Gracey’s, based in St Albans and run by partners James Woodley and Grace Surman, has earned plaudits for the quality of its pizzas; it is among a host of new-age shops in the UK such as Crisp W6 in Hammersmith and Vincenzo’s in Bushey, near Watford. All are enjoying a roaring trade.

Woodley told the Standard that the pop-up will be a blend of New Haven “apizza” classics and others that use Terry’s British comfort food to pay homage to the old school cafe.

One, the “fresh mootz”, calls for crushed San Marzano tomatoes, thinly sliced garlic, confit garlic oil, wild Sicilian oregano, and pecorino from Neal’s Yard. 

Another, dubbed the Black Pig, will see Terry’s black pudding and sausage added to the base alongside chilli, fior di latte mozzarella, Spenwood — a British take on parmesan — and hot honey. 

Terry’s owner Austin Yardley said the collaboration could become a longer-term summer residency or a regular fixture if there’s customer demand. 

He told the Standard: “We have this space and we want to use it. We’re a cafe, we do breakfast and lunch, but when Gracey’s came to me with the idea, I thought, ‘why not?’”

“We’re just going to see how it goes. Pizza will be available on the terrace outside our deli and the cafe, and there’ll be classic styles and one using some of our produce. Everyone loves pizza and so I hope it works well.

“I also want to raise the profile of our deli. The cafe is doing well, but we stock quality products from London, and serve brilliant sandwiches and snacks, and it’s just about not standing still. We started serving sourdough not so long ago. Ten years ago, we wouldn’t have.

“If the collaboration with Gracey’s goes well, hopefully we can welcome them back.” 

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