As far as enticing invitations go, my promise of dinner in a converted bank in Shirehampton on a freezing Thursday night didn’t go down quite as well as I’d hoped.
In fact, my dinner companion was still muttering something under her breath as we arrived at Ruby Jeans. The pavements of ‘Shire’ certainly weren’t the only frosty thing in the village that evening.
Thankfully, my friend soon thawed out once we were greeted warmly by the staff at this newly opened restaurant housed in the old NatWest on The Parade.
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Owners Mark Pummell and Liv Garriock opened Ruby Jeans just before Christmas after a lengthy refurbishment of the former bank.
The couple previously ran a nearby coffee shop of the same and then converted it into a community shop during lockdown, trialling dishes with a takeaway supper club and delivery service.
Having built up a strong local following, they decided to grasp the nettle and open a larger place right in the heart of the village.
The result is a restaurant/cafe that opens for breakfast and brunch in the morning and then turns into a 40-cover family-friendly restaurant at night, with roasts on Sunday lunchtime.
The main menu, served from midday until 9.30pm Wednesday to Saturday, concentrates on small plates to share.
There are boards of Somerset charcuterie and ‘locally sourced’ cheeses, as well as a choice of sliders including buttermilk fried chicken and a vegan-friendly BBQ jackfruit.
Having only obtained their alcohol licence a few days before we visited, the wine list was small but perfectly formed, and there are plans to expand it in due course.
The full-bodied and jammy Spanish Vina del Perdon cabernet sauvignon blend, sourced from Bristol wine merchant Averys, was delicious.
As for the food, it’s a menu that doesn’t stick to one particular cuisine but has something for everybody.
Portions are bigger than traditional tapas dishes and although two per person might be just right for most, three each certainly wouldn't be too much.
We just ordered a few and shared them, although there was certainly a clash of cutlery when it came to who would nab the final mouthfuls.
There were crisp, grease-less corn fritters teamed with a zesty (and vegan) lime and chilli ‘no’ mayo (£8.50) and deep-flavoured mushroom arancini (£8.70) topped with a flurry of grated Parmesan and swirls of earthy, sweet beetroot and butternut squash purées.
Thanks to the additional presence of a Nepalese chef in the kitchen, there was a special of Nepalese momo (£9) - plump, silky parcels packed with fragrant chicken and vegetables.
Also on the specials board was a dinky chicken pot pie (£8.50) - the crisp, buttery puff pastry lid covering chunks of juicy lemon and herb chicken in a moreish creamy sauce.
But the real clash of forks came with the beef cheek tagliatelle and crispy onions (£10.50) - the thick slice of meat had been cooked ‘low and slow’ until it was collapsing into the nest of pasta and sauce. A sort of uber-spag bol, if you like. Seriously good.
To finish, we both went for the light and airy burnt Basque-style cheesecake (£5.95), which had all the caramelised, nutty notes expected from this classic sunken cake and paired with poached figs.
Backed up by warm, friendly service, this was a highly enjoyable meal on all levels.
Ruby Jeans serves very good food at palatable prices and it’s precisely the sort of neighbourhood restaurant Shirehampton has long needed.
As for my frosty dinner guest - she enjoyed it so much that she’s already planning a return visit, next time presumably without the need to pack the de-icer.
Ruby Jeans, 3-4 The Parade, Shirehampton, Bristol, BS11 9TS. Tel: 0117 9824811.
