Disputes over the origins of bagels might linger, but the best bet is that somewhere in 13th century Prussia — now part of modern-day Poland — antisemitic laws which prohibited Jews from baking bread led them to boil it instead. Combined with a Christian need for lighter meals during Lent, early bagel-lovers quickly sought out the delicious bread throughout central Europe. It would take another seven centuries for bagels to leave the Jewish kitchens and enclaves in New York and Europe to garner mainstream popularity. These days they are everywhere.
Whether you’re hankering for classic lox and a schmear on an everything bagel, or one with salt-beef with mustard and dill pickle, here are London's finest.
Beigel Bake
Beigel Bake is arguably London’s most famous bagel shop, an east London stalwart open 24/7. Come evening on any night and scores of revellers pour out of pubs in Shoreditch, Bethnal Green, further still, and join the ever-lengthy queue. The bagels are made to a traditional method and fillings include smoked salmon and cream cheese, tuna mayonnaise, or chopped herring. The most popular — by some distance — is the salt beef, which is thick, tender and soft and comes with a dose of English mustard.
159 Brick Lane, E1 6SB, bricklanebeigel.co.uk
It’s Bagels
One of the newest bagel joints to hit London, It’s Bagels caused quite the stir upon opening. Queues snaked around the side streets of Primrose Hill while hungry punters waited with craning necks to get a glimpse of the glistening bagels being freshly prepped. The design feels distinctly New York, but the bagels are the stars of the show: creamy, gently chewy with a soft crisp to them. These are everything a good bagel should be. Prices start at about £4.50 with “The Works” (lox, onion, capers, lemon, schmear, tomato), lurching upwards to £13.
65 Regent's Park Road, NW1 8XD, itsbagels.com
Papo's Bagels
Made fresh each morning by Papo himself, Papo’s Bagels is another newer addition to the London bagel scene. The Dalston outpost promises New York-inspired creations from founders Georgia Fenwick-Gomez and Gabe 'Papo' Gomez, and with schmears ranging from classic to scallion to chive, as well as seven bagel flavours on offer, they have delivered just that. The at-home kits are a must too, delivered nationally if schlepping to E8 is out. Little wonder this place proved such a hit from the get go.
73-75 Shacklewell Lane, E8 2EB, paposbagels.com
Carmelli Bakeries
Perhaps the quickest and easiest route to a good bagel is simply to hop on the bus to NW11. It is the postcode of good bread. Carmelli is best as somewhere to buy freshly-baked bagels to take away and prep at home — sitting down with tea and the cinnamon and raisin bagel, drenched in butter, is one of life’s simplest but truest pleasures. That said, popping in for the smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel is perhaps a perfect way to start a weekend morning. Others rate Daniel’s (Hallswelle Parade, 12-14 Finchley Road, NW11 0DL, danielsbakery.co.uk), not far away, though lately reports seem to have been mixed. What isn’t offered at either Carmelli or Daniel’s is salt beef, but nearby is The Salt Beef Bar (2 Monkville Parade, NW11 0AL, 020 8731 7375), its red and white frontage on Monkville Parade since 1985. Bagels aren’t the thing here, but the salt beef sandwiches are locally famed, as are the tongue and chopped liver sandwiches. Worth seeking out.
126, 128 Golders Green Road, NW11 8HB, carmelli.co.uk
Rinkoff Bakery
Rinkoff's is another old-time Jewish bakery, an east London hangout where history feels as important as the doughy, comforting bite of the bagels. The place was founded in 1911 by Hyman Rinkoff, who moved to London from Ukraine in 1885, and many of his original recipes remain: bagels boiled and baked and filled with the classics. The business is still in the family, though diversification abounds with pastries such as the “crodough”.
Locations in Whitechapel, E1, rinkoffbakery.co.uk
Panzer’s deli
Panzer’s is somewhere everyone should visit to lift their spirits. Do you want some Mediterranean roasted peppers from an obscure Sicilian farmer? Yes please. Whilst the deli is just that — a luxurious little grocery stocking every niche comestible one could want — the tiny terrace out front offers breakfast and, crucially, bagels. They arrive lightly toasted, with Panzer’s signature salmon draped alongside. Cornichons take the place of girthier pickles, but capers and cream cheese are both present and correct. For about £13, it’s well worth the trip to St John’s Wood.
13-19 Circus Road, NW8 6PB, panzers.co.uk
Beigel Shop
We end close to where we began. Four doors down from the famed Beigel Bake is Beigel Shop, which calls itself “London’s oldest and first.” A bold claim, but it was there before its closest competitor, anyway. The shop, also open 24/7 but with bright yellow signage rather than white, draws a loyal crowd, but might be considered less traditional these days. It was supposedly the first bakery to bring rainbow bagels to London (remember those?) and a longer, modern menu now includes fillings such as Cumberland sausage, bacon, crab mayonnaise, and onion bhaji. Tens of thousands of bagels are sold on Brick Lane each week.
