Girlishness is a term that's long been associated with Miu Miu, originally the little sister of Prada and now a beloved house in its own right. For example, the Miu Miu girl-woman is rarely seen without a pair of Mary Janes (AW24's are glossy and sharply pointed) and excellent hosiery (in this case, ribbed, coloured tights) so she will be relieved to find her favourite things present and correct for Autumn/Winter '24.
It wasn't that literal, though – it never is, where Miuccia's concerned. 'There is a whole space between childhood and adulthood that is fascinating to me,' she said. 'It is when your character is formed.'
To that end, the idea of girlishness was reframed as a 'universal idiom, expressive of the strength of rebellion,' as read the show notes. Yes, there were shrunken proportions, evocative of childhood, but these were juxtaposed by decidedly grown-up details. The half-sleeves of a sweet princess coat showcased long leather gloves, while unkempt collars were tempered by ladylike pearls. Pyjamas were layered beneath outerwear, too.
It was proper yet improper, right yet wrong – and we all know Mrs Prada (creator of 'ugly chic') is masterful at making opposing elements feel like (un)natural bedfellows. Pun intended.
Skinny jeans have been threatening to make a return; here, Miu Miu cemented their revival. They were low-slung and styled with a matching, midriff-baring jacket, Margot Tenenbaum-worthy coat and monk-strap shoes.
Pay special attention to the bubble-hem, floral-print full skirts in violet and white and dusky blue – I have a feeling they will be a street style fixture this time in September.
The Miu Miu main character is, as Britney Spears once put it, 'not yet a girl, not a woman.' And, as it turns out, there is magic to be found in that in-between space.
