See
If for no other reason, go to Milton Keynes to visit the magnificent MK Gallery. Recently remodelled by 6a Architects in collaboration with artists Gareth Jones and Nils Norman, see the new George Stubbs exhibition, All Done from Nature, which is on until January 26. It’s the first significant overview of the artist’s work in Britain for more than 30 years and brings together 80 paintings, drawings and publications, from the National Gallery’s Whistlejacket to works never seen before in public.
Other gallery attractions include a lovely shop and an airy, fully licensed café with tables outside as well as in, serving some serious toasted sandwiches (mkgallery.org). A bit out of town is a historical gem: we loved Benedict Cumberbatch playing Enigma codebreaker Alan Turing in The Imitation Game: Bletchley Park, four miles south of Milton Keynes, tells the complete story, from how the first codebreakers started working in the mansion in 1938, under cover of being a shooting party.
Don’t miss Hut 11A, which houses the Bombe machines, which broke Enigma, in their original location. Other highlights include Hut 8, where Turing worked, and a display called Pigeons in War, fearless feathered message carriers who turned out to be another of our secret weapons. And don’t miss Turing’s teddy bear and Gordon Brown’s posthumous apology to Turing, written in 2009. Allow several hours for your visit. Admission £19 (bletchleypark.org.uk).
Twenty-five miles east of Milton Keynes, The Shuttleworth Collection is a treat for any flight and motoring enthusiast. This huge collection of aircraft and vintage vehicles is housed in six huge hangars. They were amassed by racing driver and aviator Richard Shuttleworth, who inherited a fortune and had a passion for restoring aircraft. After he died in an air crash on an RAF training exercise in 1940, additions continued to be made to the collection and almost every piece is still flown. Don’t miss the 1909 Blériot and the Twenties vintage buses. Air displays between May and October (shuttleworth.org).
Stay
If you ask nicely, hotelier David Blakeman will give you a private tour of his 16th-century home, Harlington Manor. He now runs half of it as a luxury B&B at reasonable rates. Set in the village of Harlington near the Chiltern Hills, 15 miles south-east of MK, the important historical factoid is that John Bunyan was briefly imprisoned here in 1660 before being sent to Bedford jail, where he wrote The Pilgrim’s Progress.
Each of the four bedrooms has a charming quirk, and the King Charles red room is dreamily romantic with its deep red damask walls and furnishings, and a bath big enough for two. The rest of the property, which includes a wood-panelled dining room overlooking the garden and a cosy TV room in an extension designed by Sir Albert Richardson, is filled with art and artefacts, from African masks and old oak furniture to modern Turkish ceramics. Enjoy David’s homemade granola and delicious dry-cured bacon for breakfast, included in the price. No pets or children under 11 are allowed (harlingtonmanor.com).
Eat & Drink
Head to Eileens (eileensampthill.co.uk) in Ampthill. Steve Barringer, former head chef of Flitwick Manor Hotel and BBC MasterChef: The Professionals 2011 finalist, launched the 24-cover restaurant last year. You need to book in advance and have the stamina to tackle the five or seven-course tasting menus (£55/£75), which include the option of being paired with wines and are definitely not for vegans.
Other palatable options include The French Horn, an attractive pub in Steppingley (frenchhornpub.co.uk), for fresh sea bream with samphire, or The Chequers in Westoning, for excellent pizzas and at least 30 kinds of gin (thechequerswestoning.co.uk).
Details: Milton Keynes
MK Central station is 30 minutes from London Euston on Virgin and London Midland. Harlington Manor rooms from £79 a night (07788 742209, harlingtonmanor.com)
