Rain forced more than one fashion house to scramble for indoor locations in Milan and fashionistas to find a way to move about the gridlocked Italian city on Friday without the threat of a drenching.
Some scenes from inside the runway shows on the third day of Milan Fashion Week ’s mostly womenswear previews for Spring-Summer 2024.
SWEET FAREWELL AT TOD’S
Sharon Stone, Quinta Brunson and Olivia Palermo had front-row seats for the curtain call of Tod’s designer Walter Chiapponi, who is moving on after four years at the brand.
Models traversed a cavernous workshop filled with carpentry, classical statues and the painted backdrops for La Scala opera house productions, shadowed by a robot video camera on wheels. The setting underlined Tod’s fusing of traditional Italian craftsmanship with technology.
Chiapponi’s swan song collection focused on essential luxury, featuring clean lines and an understated color story in mostly muted monochromes but enlivened by some acid green.
Leather goods claimed a starring role. Wide belts defined the silhouette, giving shape to long shirt dresses and crisp, airy blouson tops, and offering utility with tiny, snapped pockets and a hook for pretty mesh gloves.
Deconstructed tailoring in jackets and vests had a feminine charm, paired wide pleated skirts or trousers. The collection closed with fine sleeveless knit dresses clinging to the form and displaying surprise button detailing down the back.
Napa mules and a woven sandal were the shoes of the season. Tod’s trademark handbags, including the geometric T-Box and the embossed leather T Timeless, were cradled like precious cargo.
Chiapponi was celebrated backstage by friends and admirers. An announcement on a successor is pending.
— With AP Photographer Luca Bruno
