During last year’s Tahiti Pro, one of the most fearsome stops on the World Surf League, held at the giant, barrelling wave of Teahupo’o, Australia’s Jack Robinson was trailing the three-time world champion Gabriel Medina. There were just minutes on the clock, with a spot in the WSL finals on the line.
Robinson’s skill as a tube-rider – flying at high velocity within the hollow middle section of the wave – is renowned. The 26-year-old grew up on gnarly West Australian waves; he was a regular in the “green room”, as surfers call it, before he had even hit double digits.
His superb performances in Tahiti last year had already earned him a spot at the 2024 Olympics, which will host surfing on the very same island in French Polynesia. But it was in the final that Robinson’s technique truly came to the fore – and the reason he is among the gold medal favourites at the Games.
With eight minutes remaining, and Robinson needing a score of 7.18, a wave suddenly appeared out of the deep Pacific Ocean. Robinson took off late and compressed his body alongside the wave to pull into the quick-moving barrel. The wave fell around him, shrouding him from view. For a moment it appeared the Australian had been swallowed whole. Then he came roaring out, shaking off the wave’s foam and holding his fist aloft.
Robinson’s barrel earned him a score of 7.83, securing a place in the finals. “You’re like wow – how did he make that?” asked the incredulous commentator.
How to channel Robinson’s skill set
Only high-level surfers like Robinson have the skills to tuck into the barrel on a big wave, and many amateurs will go their whole life without scoring a tube ride. But the head of high performance at Surfing Australia, Kate Wilcomes, says that all surfers can learn from Robinson’s ability on one of the toughest waves in the world.
“There’s a few elements that go into being a great barrel rider,” says Wilcomes, herself a former pro. “You have the skill set itself – being able to get into the position you need to.”
The barrel at Teahupo’o breaks to the left, which mean natural-footed surfers like Robinson drop down the wave on their backhand. “There’s a specific technique – having the skill set to drop into a steep wave on your backhand is imperative,” she says.
Once a surfer is in the wave, controlling speed becomes critical. “Barrel riding all depends on speeding up and slowing down at the right times,” Robinson said to Stab magazine. Surfers need to navigate the turbulence around them, Wilcomes adds, understanding “the nuances of how the board sits in the water”.
There are two main ways to slow down on a fast-moving wave. One is a “kick stall” – moving your back foot to the tail of the board, to halt its momentum, with the nose of the board almost lifting off the wave’s face. This is something Robinson does only sparingly: “Your biggest obstacles are making it look neat and not getting sucked over because you’ve lost all your speed,” he once said. Alternatively, a surfer can drag their hand along the wave to add friction and slow the ride.
Slowing down will get a rider into the heart of the wave – then it’s time to speed up again. This involves “pumping” – something surfers of all abilities can practise on almost any wave.
“Bend at the knees, not at the waist,” Robinson says. “Keep most of your weight on the front foot as you really drive forward. Keep your arms low. Look like you’re not even trying. Keep it neat. That’s good style.”
Beyond specific technique, there is also general fitness. “The strength of the body to handle the demands of paddling into such waves, and taking wipeouts,” Wilcomes says – plus a mental element. “There’s the determination, the risk-taking, to lean into such a scary wave.”.
Wilcomes is quick to offer practical guidance. “So how do you get barrelled like an Australian Olympic surfer?” she asks. “First there’s body position – do you have the skill set to get into the position of riding the wave, how these surfers get down on the board on their backhand. Even a novice can practise on an uneven surface, on a wobble-board, working on hip mobility and core strength.
“Then practising getting into position riding a wave – on beach breaks to start with. Then the psychological component, when you notice the challenge, the fear – understanding your why. Why do you want to push yourself over the ledge?”
Surfers should take time intently observing their local beach. “There’s the specifics of the location, understanding your break,” says Wilcomes. “How the wave barrels, where to take off, even if you’re just bodysurfing, understanding where it allows you to come out of the barrel, where it closes out.”
Three key takeaways
Use a wobble-board to help with hip mobility and core strength to get your body into the right position to ride the wave.
Practise getting into position on beach breaks
Overcome fear and develop deep understanding of the wave.
