Neapolitan pizza: simple in theory, heartbreakingly complex in practice. Flour, water, salt, yeast – sounds easy, right? Then you try to make it. The dough won’t stretch, the sauce is too watery, the crust refuses to puff up like it does in Naples. You stare into the oven, willing the thing to become something edible. It doesn’t. You order a Domino’s.
Michele Pascarella – officially the best pizza maker in the world – knows the struggle. More importantly, he knows how to fix it. His debut cookbook, Napoli on the Road, isn’t just a collection of recipes; it’s a blueprint for how to get Neapolitan pizza right at home, minus the existential crises.
His method? No shortcuts, no gimmicks, no soulless, conveyor-belt nonsense. Just proper dough, real ingredients and techniques that make the difference between “good enough” and la vera cosa – the real thing. There’s the slow-fermented dough, the tomato sauce stripped back to its purest form and the pizzas themselves: a perfect Margherita, the indulgent, cheese-laden “Cheesewick”, and the deeply nostalgic Ricordi d’Infanzia – a pizza laced with slow-cooked ragù, inspired by his mother’s Sunday kitchen.
These are pizzas with history, craft and a little bit of rebellion – just like Pascarella himself. Forget the meat feasts and stuffed crusts; this is how it should be done. Get the dough right, and everything else follows.
Basic pizza dough
Making a Neapolitan-style pizza base at home is possible, but care must be taken with both the ingredients and the method for the best results. For best results I use a stand mixer.
This recipe makes sufficient dough to create six 32-cm/12-inch diameter pizza bases. If you don’t need that number of pizzas, the dough balls can be frozen in a sealed container before the Cold Fermentation stage (see page 14) and then defrosted for a few hours before use.
Ingredients:
1kg/35oz/7 cups medium strength flour
700g/24oz water in total
2g/scant tsp fresh yeast (or 1g/⅓ tsp dry yeast)
25g/5 tsp fine salt
5g/1 tsp extra virgin olive oil
Stand mixer with both whisk and dough hook attachments
Method:
1. Tip the flour into the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Add 550g/19oz of the water to the flour and mix for 3-4 minutes until the mixture is compact.
2. First resting phase: Remove the dough from the mixer and place in a bowl. Cover and leave to rest at room temperature (18-20C/64-68F) for 2 hours.
3. Second mixing phase: After the resting period, place the dough back in the bowl of the stand mixer. Dissolve the fresh or dry yeast in 50g/1oz water. Add the yeast mixture to the rested dough and start mixing. The dough might initially seem a bit loose, but don’t worry.
4. Incorporating the remaining water: Gradually add the 100g/3oz water, in a slow, thin stream, while continuing to mix. When about half of the remaining water has been added, fit the stand mixer with the dough hook and incorporate the salt.
5. Continue adding the rest of the water gradually followed by the olive oil until the dough is well combined, smooth and homogeneous.
6. Short resting phase: Let the dough rest, loosely covered, on the counter for about 20 minutes.
7. Folding: Once rested, perform folding techniques on the dough, turning it onto itself to create a smooth and elastic texture.
8. Bulk fermentation: Place the rested and folded dough in a bowl tightly covered with cling film/plastic wrap. Leave it to rise for about 3-4 hours at room temperature (18-20C/64-68F).
9. Forming dough balls: After 3-4 hours have passed, the dough will have doubled in size. Remove the cling film/plastic wrap and tip the dough out from the bowl onto the counter, using a spatula to ease it out. Use a dough scraper/cutter to divide into 6 pieces of equal size. Use your hands to stretch, fold and shape each piece into a ball.
10. Resting the dough balls: Transfer the dough balls to a suitable lidded container, replace the lid and seal. Let the dough balls rest in the container at room temperature for 1-1½ hours.
11. Cold fermentation: After the dough balls have rested, place the sealed container in the fridge at 4-5C/39-41F for a further 12-14 hours for cold fermentation to take place.
12. Preparation for use Remove the container from the fridge and allow a further 30 minutes to 1 hour for the dough to come to room temperature (this will depend on the ambient temperature of your room).
13. Next, use a dough scraper/cutter to carefully remove each ball from the container and place it on a floured counter. (You can use wheat or semolina flour at this point, but do use semolina flour sparingly as too much will taint the taste of your pizza dough once cooked.)
14. Shaping: To shape a dough ball, press it into a disk using your fingers, shaping it so the dough is a little thicker around the outside edge. Drape it over the back of your hand and stretch it over your knuckles. Lift the dough and using both hands use your fists to stretch and turn it until it’s about 32cm/12in in diameter.
15. Topping and baking your pizza: Working quickly, add your chosen toppings and bake as directed by the individual recipes or, if using a pro pizza oven, follow the alternative method given on page 10.
Note: If you are not confident to shape a base by hand as I do (it takes practice!), you can roll the dough out on a flour-dusted counter using a rolling pin. Do however use a small rolling pin and roll out from the centre of the disk, leaving it thicker around the outside edge to create the delicious risen crust.
Margherita
A timeless classic with fresh tomatoes, fior di latte and basil.
Ingredients:
1 ball pizza dough
Flour, for dusting
90g passata
70g fior di latte, torn into pieces
10g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
A few fresh basil leaves
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Salt
Method:
1. Preheating the oven: Preheat your oven to its highest temperature for at least 40 minutes.
2. Preparing the pizza base: Begin with dough that has been allowed to rise properly. Roll out the dough ball on a lightly floured surface, forming a slightly raised edge around the sides. Lift onto a baking sheet.
3. Adding the tomato: Evenly spread the passata over the pizza base, avoiding the edges. Season with a pinch of salt.
4. Initial baking: Place the pizza at the bottom of the preheated oven and bake for about 5 minutes.
5. Adding the cheeses: After the initial 5 minutes of baking, when the base is nearly but not fully cooked, remove the pizza from the oven. Add the pieces of fior di latte and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
6. Final baking: Transfer the pizza to the upper part of the oven and switch to the grill mode. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the crust is lightly golden.
7. Finishing and serving: Remove the pizza from the oven and garnish with fresh basil leaves and a final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Let the pizza rest for a minute before slicing and serving.
‘Cheesewick’
A now famous blend of assorted cheeses, crafted by me, Michele Pascarella at Napoli on the Road in Chiswick.
Ingredients:
1 ball pizza dough
Flour, for dusting
100g Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
30g ricotta cheese
80g buffalo mozzarella, torn into pieces
30g dry blue Stilton, broken into small pieces
40g stracciatella
About 60ml Creamy Piennolo Cherry Tomato Jam (recipe below)
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Method:
1. Making the Parmigiano-Reggiano chips: Place the finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on a small sheet of baking paper to form a layer about 5mm/¼in thick. Cook in the microwave for about 1. minutes, take it out slowly from the paper and set aside for 1-2 minutes or until dry.
2. Preheating the oven: Preheat your oven to its highest temperature for at least 40 minutes.
3. Preparing the pizza base: Begin with dough that has been allowed to rise properly. Roll out the dough ball on a lightly floured surface, forming a slightly raised edge around the sides. Lift onto a baking sheet.
4. Adding two cheeses: Spread the ricotta cheese evenly over the pizza base, avoiding the edges, then add the buffalo mozzarella.
5. Initial baking: Place the pizza at the bottom of the preheated oven and bake for about 5 minutes.
6. Final baking: Transfer the pizza to the upper part of the oven and switch to the grill mode. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the crust is lightly golden.
7. Finishing and serving: Remove the pizza from the oven, add the Parmigiano-Reggiano chips, the pieces of Stilton and the stracciatella. Dot the pizza with about 14 small blobs of Creamy Piennolo Cherry Tomato Jam and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Let the pizza rest for a minute before slicing and serving.
Creamy Piennolo cherry tomato jam
The Vesuvio Piennolo DOP Cherry Tomato is grown on the slopes of Vesuvius. It has a particularly sweet and intense flavour, making it perfect for a sticky jam/jelly.
Makes: approx 500ml/16oz/2 cups
Ingredients:
500g/1lb 2oz Piennolo cherry tomatoes
1 fresh red chilli/chile (optional, for heat)
1 tbsp olive oil
200g/1 cup granulated sugar
100ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1. Preparation: Wash the Piennolo cherry tomatoes thoroughly and cut them in half. If using, deseed and finely chop the red chilli.
2. Cooking the tomatoes: In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the cherry tomatoes and the chilli (if using). Stir and cook for about 5 minutes until the tomatoes start to soften.
3. Adding sugar and vinegar: Add the sugar, apple cider vinegar, salt and black pepper to the saucepan. Stir well to combine all the ingredients.
4. Bringing to the boil: Increase the heat for about 5 minutes to dissolve the sugar.
5. Simmering: Reduce the heat to low and let the mixture simmer for about 30–40 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. The mixture should thicken and become jam-like, then cook for an additional 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously.
6. Blending for creaminess: For a smoother texture, use a hand-held stick blender directly in the saucepan until you achieve the desired consistency. Alternatively, let the jam cool slightly and blend in a regular blender.
7. Bottling: Allow the jam to cool completely. Using a funnel, transfer the cooled jam into a sterilized squeezy bottle. Seal the bottle tightly.
8. Storage: Store the Piennolo cherry tomato jam in the refrigerator. It should last for up to 3 months.
Ricordi d’Infanzia
A nostalgic delight with rich ragù, evoking precious childhood memories.
Ingredients:
1 ball pizza dough
Flour, for dusting
30g/2 tbsp basic tomato sauce (recipe below)
100g/3½oz Neapolitan ragù (recipe below)
30g/1oz Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
4-5 tbsp Parmigiano-Reggiano Cream (see page 26)
A few fresh basil leaves
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Salt
Method:
1. Preheating the oven: Preheat your oven to its highest temperature for at least 40 minutes.
2. Preparing the pizza base: Begin with dough that has been allowed to rise properly. Roll out the dough ball on a lightly floured surface, forming a slightly raised edge around the sides. Lift onto a baking sheet.
3. Adding the sauces: Spread the tomato sauce and the ragù evenly over the pizza base, avoiding the edges. Season with a pinch of salt.
4. Initial baking: Place the pizza at the bottom of the preheated oven and bake for about 5 minutes.
5. Final baking: Transfer the pizza to the upper part of the oven and switch to the grill/broil mode. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the crust is lightly golden.
6. Finishing and serving: Remove the pizza from the oven and finish with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Parmigiano-Reggiano cream, a few fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Let the pizza rest for a minute before slicing and serving.
Basic tomato sauce
This traditional recipe does not include any oil or spices. The simplicity allows the natural flavour of the tomatoes to shine, which makes it the perfect sauce for a pizza base.
Makes: enough for 8-10 pizzas
Ingredients:
1kg/2lb 4oz canned whole peeled tomatoes
10g/2 tsp fine salt
Method:
1. Preparing the tomatoes: Pour the tomatoes into a large bowl and crush them with your hands, removing any hard parts or skin residues (this method allows you to maintain a rustic and even texture, preserving the integrity of the pulp and seeds). Alternatively, pass the tomatoes through a food mill – this will separate the seeds and skins while giving you a smooth yet textured sauce.
2. Add salt: Add the salt and mix well to ensure the salt is evenly distributed.
Neapolitan ragù
There are many versions of Neapolitan ragù sauce but this is my grandmother’s recipe and one that is very close to my heart. It is traditionally served with ribbons of tagliatelle pasta and grated Parmesan but this is also the essential ingredient for my Ricordi d’Infanzia pizza.
Makes: enough to top 8-10 pizzas (or enjoy with tagliatelle and grated Parmesan)
Ingredients:
1kg/2lb 4oz beef shank, cut into large pieces
100ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp
Extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 200ml/¾ cup red wine
200g/7oz tomato purée/paste
2 litres/8½ cups passata/strained tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1. Searing the meat: Season the beef pieces with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over a medium-high heat. Add the beef and sear the pieces on all sides until browned. Remove the meat and set aside.
2. Cooking the onions: and garlic In the same pot, add the finely chopped onion and garlic. Cook until the onion becomes translucent and soft, about 5-7 minutes.
3. Deglazing with wine: Pour in the red wine to deglaze the pot, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the wine simmer until it reduces by half.
4. Adding the tomatoes: Add the tomato purée to the pot, stirring well to combine with the onions and garlic. Then add the passata and stir together well.
5. Combining meat and sauce: Return the browned beef to the pot. Stir to ensure the meat is well-coated with the tomato mixture.
6. Slow cooking: Reduce the heat to low and let the ragù simmer gently, uncovered, for about 6-8 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. The sauce should thicken and develop a deep, rich flavour. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a bit of water as needed.
7. Adjusting seasoning: Taste the ragù and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper if needed.
8. Shredding: Remove the meat from the sauce and set it on a plate. Using two forks, shred the meat and return it to the sauce.
Recipes from ‘Napoli on the Road’ by Michele Pascarella (Ryland Peters & Small, £20).
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