Couturier Mayyur Girotra is the first-ever South Asian designer chosen to inaugurate New York Pride. On June 2, coinciding with the commencement of Pride month, Mayyur will unveil his highly anticipated luxury pret line, AIKYA, in an exclusive showcase. The event will unfold at Āve – Soho NYC, amplifying India’s burgeoning influence in the global fashion landscape.
Amid the debate in India on same-sex marriage, the Delhi-based banker-turned-designer is channelling his talent to make a powerful statement. Expressing his position on the matter, he shares, “The fundamental right to marry the person you love should not be questioned. It is a basic human right that should be universally recognised.”
Mayyur’s inaugural luxury pret collection, named Aikya, embraces the fluidity of gender by harmoniously merging Western silhouettes with traditional Indian embroidery techniques. Infused with his trademark vivacity and youthful aesthetic, the designer incorporates custom-made prints and Kutch embroidery, drawing inspiration from the cultural opulence of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Setting itself apart from his previous collections, the collection is testament to Girotra’s commitment to gender inclusivity, promoting inclusivity and empowering self-expression.
The showcase, staged in collaboration with Google, will feature a backdrop of photographs portraying queer individuals from India. “We are delighted to collaborate with queer models for this showcase,” shares Mayyur. With the deft hands of skilled artisans from Lucknow and Gujarat, the designer integrates local embroidery into his gender fluid garments.
During the making of the collection, the designer engaged in conversations with his Indian artisans about queerness. “It was truly heartwarming to witness their genuine curiosity and eagerness to understand what being queer means. These conversations fostered beautiful discussions centred around love and acceptance, creating treasured memories that reverberate throughout the collection,” he says.
India in focus
This year, India’s influence on the global fashion stage has been undeniable, from the acclaimed Dior show in Mumbai to the Kerala-made MET Gala rug. Mayyur’s distinction as the first South Asian designer to open New York Pride further amplifies this. “India is stepping into the spotlight in the fashion world this year,” Mayyur emphasised.
Describing the appeal of Indian designs, he explains, “Our creations embody the richness of our culture, exuding a boho and colourful aesthetic that resonates with the fashion preferences of Gen Z. The younger generation are seeking individualistic styles, embracing vibrant colours and investing in garments that tell a story.”
Opening New York Pride is special for Mayyur, as it was there that he attended his first pride celebration in 2008. Reflecting on the experience, he shares, “Like everything else in my life, my first pride also occurred relatively late. It was in my late 20s when I attended my first pride in New York. However, once I was there, I felt a profound sense of ease.”
At the pride, he discovered a welcoming community that embraced his authentic self. “I found myself in an environment where I could freely express my true identity and wear whatever I desired. Honestly, it was an incredibly meaningful experience that will always hold a special place in my heart.”
Anish Gawande, founder of The Pink List India, which tracks queer-friendly politicians in the country, will be at the New York Pride championing the collection. “I studied in New York but wasn’t brave enough to attend Pride then. This year, five years after I graduated, I’ll be at Mayyur’s show in the city, out and proud and supporting queer Indian talent — so it really feels like life has come full circle,” he says.
The way forward
The Rhodes scholar notes the pandemic really highlighted the importance of global queer solidarity. “The LGBTQ+ community from across the world came together to support grassroots community organisations in India,” he says.
Anish is hoping this fashion show allows for those bonds to be nourished and strengthened. “India is at a pivotal moment in the movement for equal rights for the queer community — and we really must learn from, and lean upon, those who have successfully led these movements,” he adds.
Upon learning that he would have the privilege of opening for New York Pride, the designer recognised the responsibility of his platform and the importance of advocating for his friends and loved ones. He remarks, “I realised that I had the obligation to use this opportunity to speak up for all my friends and loved ones who have endured hardships simply because of who they are and whom they love.”
